Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a chance to buy a working HKS 2535, I will have to have a elbow made for it and buy the oil and waterlines.

I was saving up money before this to get a Hypergear High flow, or a turbo from Sonic Performance for my car.

At this point, I want about 300-350hp for the car. I want to see what its like to drive with that before I try to get higher horse power.

I have a stock rb 20 det engine with a rb25 turbo, fmic, full 3" exaust from the turbo back, exhaust after the sports cat is 4 or 5 in., pod filter, and a mines tune. I have stock injectors.

I have some GTR injectors now and have a chance to get the resistor pack for it or I might just buy the correct injectors for the car and not worry about wiring up the gtr injectors. Going at least 550cc if I dont use the gtr injectors.

I know I will need a tune when I change turbos and add the injectors.

Is the HKS still a good choice for the rb20? Or are the newer Hypergear 25turbo hi flows and some of the Sonic performance turbos better?

I already asked about turbos before but I never considered a HKS 2535 or 2530. I spent hours last night reading up on old posts about the HKS turbos and the rb 20. Question is not if they are good turbos or not, question is if they are still worth putting on a car today with all of the newer turbos available today.

Edited by yoshiii335
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464580-hks-2535-and-newer-turbos-question/
Share on other sites

Been there done that, dinosaur turbo I used back in 2007.

Billet people, billet people!

Ok billet, I read about those.

The only billet turbos I can find for the rb20 are from Sonic Performance, The GTX turbos by Garrett.

The Hypergear Hi Flows seems to be non billet.

It doesn't need billet material for better power making. It is more to do with the shape, radious and profile of the actual blades. The New SAT cast wheels worked well in terms of high flowin. The Billet wheels are best working with externally gated setups.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...