Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

225awkw @ 11psi... Wastegate pressure, that's as little as she'll make :Oops:

I'd prefer the ability to make less power for snow driving and stuff, but apparently setting the wastegate pressure higher helps boost control up top when we wind her out to 24-25psi...

So that's all I have to play with for the next week or so :D :D :(

Hi Merli, we have removed the wastegate spring on a couple of engines and run them in NA for a hundred k's or so. Then put the spring back for another couple of hundred. I drive them to Bathurst (lot's of nice long hills to pull up) or Canberra, stick the wastegate spring in and then drive them home. By the time I get back they are nicely run in. I am always surprised at how well an RB31DE (no T) goes, especially with some mild cams and head work. :)

SK, isn't the point of running in an engine to drive it under as much load and compression as possible to bed in the rings and all the freshly machined surfaces?

To that end, isn't it better to run a bit of boost to aid stretching the rings out? Or am I completely off track? :D

It was run in for 5 hours on the dyno with varying loads and cruise whilst tuning all the things like cold start, cruise, light load, AFM corrections, injector setup, blah blah blah... Now I get the car for doing a bit more heavier load running in... Does that sound about right?

ferni: It was making 210awkw @ 14psi before the work was done... It's all about airflow though, and these turbos aren't even blowing hard yet... We'll just have to wait and see what happens when we turn the boost controller on :)

Fellas,

Thanks for the info, might talk to our SAUWA commitee and see if we can get onboard with Whiteline too...

Ferni, Nah not HID's though would love a set on there but not the price.... Also it was 421hp at PAS, though we tuned it last weekend on DD shootout and got 404hp at the rears so obviously the hub dyno at PAS was ready fairly high..

Merli: yeah so i guess that shows that the GTSS are flowing much more air than standard turbos... where is boost coming on with them at the moment? same/earlier/later than before?

EVL: thats still 300rwkw!, standard turbos??

Not sure where boost is coming on just yet... Didn't have a good look at the dyno graph... All will be revealed after final tuning...

EVL: The hub dynos eliminate the power loss from the wheels and tyres, so you would expect them to read a little higher than a chassis dyno like the DD :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok so the update on this is my car is handling alot better i belive.

I had the wheel alignment done by tech sport in bayswater, Zac is a good guy, seems to know what he's doing and was happy to answer any questions i had.

I got the front of my car raised 2cm as well so it doens't sit like a grasshopper anymore like a GTR normally does.

i got the swaybars set to hard front and rear..

i have -2.2 camber on the front and +4.8 castor with 3mm toe in

on the rear i have no toe .. i wanted about -1.5 camber on the back but couldn't get it on the right side.. but i have a couple of whiteline bushes left from the camber kit, so going to get one of those installed on the right side to give me more to play with.. we got -1.6 on the left, but for now we set them equal at about -2.5 rear camber... Going back tomorrow to get the other bush put in and hopefully wind the rear camber down to about -1.5ish

car is handling awesome as far as i can tell on the road, i'm really happy with it.. hopefully putting the rear camber back to -1.5ish wont take too much of my handling away.

Great to hear mate. We can sort you a license Tuesday evening at the club meeting so get down the Island with us. :(

I just installed the Whiteline Adjustable Anti Roll bars (I know it's a GTSt so different to drive and the front bar has 4 holes each side) and the improvement is huge. Car feels about 2 feet narrower. As for sliding...the right foot controls that now. I put a set of Whiteline pineapples in too, set for traction after 2 days of playing with the bars and there was a definite improvement as well as better traction out of corners.

Merli that thing is going to be a killa. Will we see it on a track down here sometime?

Got another bush put in today, and rear camber is down to a more reasonable -1.8... so its all good...

skylinegeoff: i dont think i can make it on tuesday - i have other (sporting) commitments tuesday nights :rofl:

What's more sporting than drinking beer and eating Schnitz??????

We can do you a license at the track on Saturday. You just use the slip and the real thing arrives an a couple of weeks. All Kosher. Gotta see the handling improvement.

Nope, there are 3 settings on each bar, so that's 9 possible combinations.

If we call the outer (softer) holes on the front bar F1, the inner (harder) hole on the front bar F2.  The outer hole on the rear is then R1 and the inner hole R2.

The possible combinations are;

F1, F1 and R1, R1 (soft front/soft rear)  

F1, F1 and R1, R2 (soft front/medium rear)

F1, F1 and R2, R2 (soft front/hard rear)...sounds like a girl I knew once.... :wassup:  

F1, F2 and R1, R1 (medium front/soft rear)

F1, F2 and R1, R2 (medium front/medium rear)

F1, F2 and R2, R2 (medium front/hard rear)

F2, F2 and R1, R1 (hard front/soft rear)

F2, F2 and R1, R2 (hard front/medium rear)

F2, F2 and R2, R2 (hard front/hard rear)

Since F1,F2 is the same antiroll rate as F2,F1, to include them would be duplicative.  Ditto R1,R2 and R2,R1.

That's more than enough to keep you busy choosing you personal favourite :P

I have spoken to whiteline about the settings for the adjustable swaybars. They told me NOT to have the the settings on one side of the bar different to the other as this will load up the bar unevenly.

I have spoken to whiteline about the settings for the adjustable swaybars.  They told me NOT to have the the settings on one side of the bar different to the other as this will load up the bar unevenly.

Name please and I will have them sacked. :(

i had soft/soft first, then changed to front medium and rear hard.. now on hard/hard

thinking of dropping the rear back to medium, but am going to try reducing shock dampening first..

heavy braking (at high speeds usually) results in my arse end squirming around alot... was at the track a PI yesterday... i can control it but makes me nervous and think its causing me to brake to early sometimes since i'm scared of what will happen if try to go into the corner even on slight braking...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...