Jump to content
SAU Community

New guy with M35

RSXVRider

By RSXVRider,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

Posted
Posted
New guy with M35

Hey guys,

I've just bought my first stagea after wanting one for ages. M35 bone stock apart from a set of rims.

I love it. It needs a few things doing to it but that's half the fun.

It came with a full service history so I hope it's been looked after.

The one problem I do have and I have read EVERY post in here about it is my 4WD light is on.

what makes this so different? Well after reading a thread in here on how to clear codes (turn on, press acc pedal 5 times etc) my light goes off. I drive it and I have functioning 4WD (split torque gauge works).

BUT when I re start the car [normally] the light will be on so I'll turn car off, go through the code clearing actions and BooM, all good ????

My intention is to try the relay under the airbox , failing that I'll bleed the lines of any air.

Has anyone else had what I have described ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466787-new-guy-with-m35/
Share on other sites
RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Josh.

Thanks to all the information in this forum that was the first thing I checked. Currently my level is just above full.

Would that amount prevent the pump from pressurizing the system?

Also do you have any idea as to why I can clear the code and it works fine only for the code to return?

I'm reading all about how our cars are NOT OBDII so clearing them could be a hassle.

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
55 minutes ago, RSXVRider said:

Thanks Josh.

Thanks to all the information in this forum that was the first thing I checked. Currently my level is just above full.

Would that amount prevent the pump from pressurizing the system?

Also do you have any idea as to why I can clear the code and it works fine only for the code to return?

I'm reading all about how our cars are NOT OBDII so clearing them could be a hassle.

I don't have a stag yet but about to own one. Has done a bit of researching on this issue as well as the car i'm getting having the same problem.

By the sound of it, if any luck, a flush + new fluid my help you. There is also a big fuse (?) (20amp) somewhere that can be replace to fix the issue as well. If all of those mentioned still dont' fix it, better start sourcing a secondhand unit as the $2 pressure switch (built in) is known to fail and Nissan won't sell them separate.

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, RSXVRider said:

Thanks west.

Well ive just found out that if i start the car with the synchro switched on i dont get the 4WD light on.
Fully functional 4WD.
Weird right.... lol.

Have heard of that as well but i'm afraid it's only a band-aid fix and not a long term solution, then again i could be wrong, only interpreting what i have read so far.

RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So i put my new relay in.
Statyed car. No 4ws light.
Small deive light stays off. Winning.
Turn car off.
Turn car on. Boom. 4wd light on again. Hmmmmmm.

Can anyone tell me what fuse is the 4wd? There are some big ones bwhind the battery but noting is labeled

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

It sounds like a pressure switch fault mate; very common. The best thing to do would be to get it on a scantool, and find out 100% what the fault is.

The fuse (it's more a fusible link) for the ATTESSA pump is in the block in front of the battery. 

It's labelled ETS from memory.

RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks West. I hadn't seen that thread before.

I did try the disconnect single wire to the pump to bleed it but the pump wouldn't activate.

I'm going to give it another go on the weekend as i just read on another tread that you're supposed to bleed the gearbox nipple. I was attempting to bleed the ATTESSA pump nipple.

Plus one tread says to disconnect then bleed where as another one says to disconnect then re-connect straight away to bleed.

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, RSXVRider said:

Thanks West. I hadn't seen that thread before.

I did try the disconnect single wire to the pump to bleed it but the pump wouldn't activate.

I'm going to give it another go on the weekend as i just read on another tread that you're supposed to bleed the gearbox nipple. I was attempting to bleed the ATTESSA pump nipple.

Plus one tread says to disconnect then bleed where as another one says to disconnect then re-connect straight away to bleed.

From this thread?

 

RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So after re reading all the threads I managed to work out the correct way to bleed the ATTESSA pump.

There was a ton of huge air bubbles in the line so I was quietly confident that was my problem.

I flushed the entire system with new fluid just to find my light is still on ..... Grrrrrrr

Well at least I know my pump actually works...

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, RSXVRider said:

So after re reading all the threads I managed to work out the correct way to bleed the ATTESSA pump.

There was a ton of huge air bubbles in the line so I was quietly confident that was my problem.

I flushed the entire system with new fluid just to find my light is still on ..... Grrrrrrr

Well at least I know my pump actually works...

So what's your method of doing it?

RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

1. Prepare. Bleed hose on nipple of the transfer case (just behind trans on drivers side). Open ATTESSA fluid bottle with funnel in.

2. Turn key to ACCESSORY on. Don't start car. 

3. Disconnect the pump wire 10cm up from the OBDII connector. Leave it disconnected. You will hear the pump 'cycle' ONCE.

4. Using 10mm open ring spanner, loosen bleed nipple. As the seal breaks open the pump will cycle in a 'rhythm'. as you undo the bleed screw more the 'rhythm' becomes a constant purge from the pump."

5. Go to the back of the car and as the funnel is already in your canister, simple pour more fluid in.

6. Over fill (past the line) in order to give you time to get back under the car and close the bleed valve.

7. Reconnect the single wire connector for the pump.

8. Turn key back to OFF.

9. Check fluid level.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...