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New guy with M35

RSXVRider

By RSXVRider,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

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Posted
New guy with M35

Hey guys,

I've just bought my first stagea after wanting one for ages. M35 bone stock apart from a set of rims.

I love it. It needs a few things doing to it but that's half the fun.

It came with a full service history so I hope it's been looked after.

The one problem I do have and I have read EVERY post in here about it is my 4WD light is on.

what makes this so different? Well after reading a thread in here on how to clear codes (turn on, press acc pedal 5 times etc) my light goes off. I drive it and I have functioning 4WD (split torque gauge works).

BUT when I re start the car [normally] the light will be on so I'll turn car off, go through the code clearing actions and BooM, all good ????

My intention is to try the relay under the airbox , failing that I'll bleed the lines of any air.

Has anyone else had what I have described ?

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RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

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Thanks Josh.

Thanks to all the information in this forum that was the first thing I checked. Currently my level is just above full.

Would that amount prevent the pump from pressurizing the system?

Also do you have any idea as to why I can clear the code and it works fine only for the code to return?

I'm reading all about how our cars are NOT OBDII so clearing them could be a hassle.

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
55 minutes ago, RSXVRider said:

Thanks Josh.

Thanks to all the information in this forum that was the first thing I checked. Currently my level is just above full.

Would that amount prevent the pump from pressurizing the system?

Also do you have any idea as to why I can clear the code and it works fine only for the code to return?

I'm reading all about how our cars are NOT OBDII so clearing them could be a hassle.

I don't have a stag yet but about to own one. Has done a bit of researching on this issue as well as the car i'm getting having the same problem.

By the sound of it, if any luck, a flush + new fluid my help you. There is also a big fuse (?) (20amp) somewhere that can be replace to fix the issue as well. If all of those mentioned still dont' fix it, better start sourcing a secondhand unit as the $2 pressure switch (built in) is known to fail and Nissan won't sell them separate.

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, RSXVRider said:

Thanks west.

Well ive just found out that if i start the car with the synchro switched on i dont get the 4WD light on.
Fully functional 4WD.
Weird right.... lol.

Have heard of that as well but i'm afraid it's only a band-aid fix and not a long term solution, then again i could be wrong, only interpreting what i have read so far.

RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

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Posted

So i put my new relay in.
Statyed car. No 4ws light.
Small deive light stays off. Winning.
Turn car off.
Turn car on. Boom. 4wd light on again. Hmmmmmm.

Can anyone tell me what fuse is the 4wd? There are some big ones bwhind the battery but noting is labeled

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

It sounds like a pressure switch fault mate; very common. The best thing to do would be to get it on a scantool, and find out 100% what the fault is.

The fuse (it's more a fusible link) for the ATTESSA pump is in the block in front of the battery. 

It's labelled ETS from memory.

RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks West. I hadn't seen that thread before.

I did try the disconnect single wire to the pump to bleed it but the pump wouldn't activate.

I'm going to give it another go on the weekend as i just read on another tread that you're supposed to bleed the gearbox nipple. I was attempting to bleed the ATTESSA pump nipple.

Plus one tread says to disconnect then bleed where as another one says to disconnect then re-connect straight away to bleed.

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, RSXVRider said:

Thanks West. I hadn't seen that thread before.

I did try the disconnect single wire to the pump to bleed it but the pump wouldn't activate.

I'm going to give it another go on the weekend as i just read on another tread that you're supposed to bleed the gearbox nipple. I was attempting to bleed the ATTESSA pump nipple.

Plus one tread says to disconnect then bleed where as another one says to disconnect then re-connect straight away to bleed.

From this thread?

 

RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

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So after re reading all the threads I managed to work out the correct way to bleed the ATTESSA pump.

There was a ton of huge air bubbles in the line so I was quietly confident that was my problem.

I flushed the entire system with new fluid just to find my light is still on ..... Grrrrrrr

Well at least I know my pump actually works...

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, RSXVRider said:

So after re reading all the threads I managed to work out the correct way to bleed the ATTESSA pump.

There was a ton of huge air bubbles in the line so I was quietly confident that was my problem.

I flushed the entire system with new fluid just to find my light is still on ..... Grrrrrrr

Well at least I know my pump actually works...

So what's your method of doing it?

RSXVRider Apprentice

RSXVRider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

1. Prepare. Bleed hose on nipple of the transfer case (just behind trans on drivers side). Open ATTESSA fluid bottle with funnel in.

2. Turn key to ACCESSORY on. Don't start car. 

3. Disconnect the pump wire 10cm up from the OBDII connector. Leave it disconnected. You will hear the pump 'cycle' ONCE.

4. Using 10mm open ring spanner, loosen bleed nipple. As the seal breaks open the pump will cycle in a 'rhythm'. as you undo the bleed screw more the 'rhythm' becomes a constant purge from the pump."

5. Go to the back of the car and as the funnel is already in your canister, simple pour more fluid in.

6. Over fill (past the line) in order to give you time to get back under the car and close the bleed valve.

7. Reconnect the single wire connector for the pump.

8. Turn key back to OFF.

9. Check fluid level.

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