Jump to content
SAU Community

Pink slip ?Q?

SXCSKY
 Share

Recommended Posts

HKS-R33 Experienced

HKS-R33

Posted
Posted

when i got mine registered i had to go back because they complained about the wheels...check what your engineers report says and keep those tyres on...i had the standard rims and the tyres recommended on the tyre plaque inside the drivers door and they still knocked it back

thats all they were mainly picky about with me

;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46834-pink-slip-q/#findComment-950102
Share on other sites
SXCSKY Collaborator

SXCSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
when i got mine registered i had to go back because they complained about the wheels...check what your engineers report says and keep those tyres on...i had the standard rims and the tyres recommended on the tyre plaque inside the drivers door and they still knocked it back

thats all they were mainly picky about with me

;)

so u had the usual pod filter and bov etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46834-pink-slip-q/#findComment-950120
Share on other sites
wilch Grand Master

wilch

Posted
Posted

Basic rule of thumb is that a garage can give you a pink slip for anything, but Police can still defect you for whatever was passed by that garage (eg. dark tint).

Some places are stricter than others.

One thing is for sure, they do NOT test for emissions, or sound. So exhaust and pod are fine.

Wheels and springs are fine...unless your wheels/tires are constantly scrubbing the guards.

Height: my car's have never been checked. I use to drive an Integra that was lower than legal (stupidly low). Seven years of owning that car and I didn't once have a problem with getting a pink slip for it.

Boost controller: I don't think most local service station garage's would even think to look for one, or even know what one was if they saw it.

Tint: Any car built after a certain date (I think it was August 1992 or something) has to be checked by them for the darkness of the tint. If the car was built before this date they are not required to check the tint at all, so you can get away with having 5% tint. (Remember, they can pass it, but the cops can still defect you for it).

wil..

P.S. This only applies to NSW. Not sure what it's like in other states.

P.P.S. Sxcsky I think I've seen your car. Shepherd's Drive, Cherrybrook ring a bell?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46834-pink-slip-q/#findComment-950822
Share on other sites
SXCSKY Collaborator

SXCSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Basic rule of thumb is that a garage can give you a pink slip for anything, but Police can still defect you for whatever was passed by that garage (eg. dark tint).

Some places are stricter than others.  

One thing is for sure, they do NOT test for emissions, or sound. So exhaust and pod are fine.  

Wheels and springs are fine...unless your wheels/tires are constantly scrubbing the guards.

Height: my car's have never been checked. I use to drive an Integra that was lower than legal (stupidly low). Seven years of owning that car and I didn't once have a problem with getting a pink slip for it.

Boost controller: I don't think most local service station garage's would even think to look for one, or even know what one was if they saw it.

Tint: Any car built after a certain date (I think it was August 1992 or something) has to be checked by them for the darkness of the tint. If the car was built before this date they are not required to check the tint at all, so you can get away with having 5% tint. (Remember, they can pass it, but the cops can still defect you for it).

wil..

P.S. This only applies to NSW. Not sure what it's like in other states.

P.P.S. Sxcsky I think I've seen your car. Shepherd's Drive, Cherrybrook ring a bell?

Shepherds Bell, CherryBrook? nope neva been

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46834-pink-slip-q/#findComment-952356
Share on other sites
T0nyGTSt Grand Master

T0nyGTSt

Posted
Posted

Unfortunately with imports, I would not chance your corner garage unless you know them and they will 'set you up the bomb'.

It's not really legal but the friend I take it do doesn't bother to drive the car or test brakes. He makes me fill out the VIN and rego and I pays my $30 and I get my pink slip.

He didn't want to test my brakes because it's a 'waste of time using his accelerometer to run a car with four pot pistons, 300mm discs and racing pads'.

I don't waste his time with bald tyres or bad lights. It's a nice relationship :)

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46834-pink-slip-q/#findComment-953886
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...