Jump to content
SAU Community

AMG Brakes R33 GTR

R33Vspe.c
 Share

Recommended Posts

R33Vspe.c Rookie

R33Vspe.c

Posted
Posted

AMG Brakes R33 GTR

Hi,

I'm looking for some upgrade brakes for my R33 GTR.
Got a nice offer for some SL55AMG brakes.

Front 8 pot calipers and rear 4 pots.

Anybody here who's driving them on his skyline or have some infos about this conversion?

I found some brackets for the front calipers, but nothing for the rear ones confused.gif
Brake master cylinder can be stock or should I change it?
Also thinking about which brake discs will fit under 18" and fit with the bolt circle...

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468695-amg-brakes-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites
baron_von_bootsector Enthusiast

baron_von_bootsector

Posted
Posted (edited)

Have seen a few people doing it over in the states with Z32 and S series cars (https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151930459693296.1073741843.296402898295) but do be careful with the adapters on GTR's as the front hub design is different to the rear wheel only models. On the rears you will probably be looking at having to get a custom set of adapters made as its not a common swap.

I have no idea what the piston sizes are on those calipers, you will need to find out in order to figure out the piston area so you can have an idea of just how different both sets are to your current setup and it will dictate if you need a new master cylinder / balance adjustment. An excellent calculator for this can be found at http://brakepower.com/help_abc_27_PAC_t.htm

On the the subject of rotors you might be able to get away with the 354.6mm ones off a 350Z track model as they are direct bolt on (DBA42314S for example) or even better getting a custom set of hats made up for a two piece style rotor and then you can pretty much pick and choose your best size. It costs a bit to get a set of hats turned up but the weight difference is huge and the cost of the friction areas only is normally less than decent performance 1 piece rotors.

 

Edited by baron_von_bootsector
fixed link

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • sonicii
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • GTSBoy
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • GTSBoy
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...