Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HR30 Skyline - running rough after being in storage

hey guys, hoping someone here can point me in the right direction....

100% stock standard 1982 Nissan Skyline HR30 – L20ET. Was running perfectly fine as a daily driver until put into storage January 2014. Unfortunately I neglected to put in a fuel stabiliser, but did leave the battery on an automatic charger. 

Around 18 months later in mid 2015 I started it, maybe put in some new fuel, maybe not, drove it around for a week then put it back into storage, was running fine.

Fast forward another 18 months and I’m back in the country permanently now and looking to return it to a daily driver, I hopped in and cranked it, battery has heaps of cranking power, but the engine didn’t want to fire, gave it a little more throttle than normal and it ran with the engine shaking like an unbalanced washing machine for around 10-20 seconds before I turned it off.

Next I drained the fuel tank, replaced with 20L of 95 octane fuel, replaced fuel filter, then tried again. Engine no longer shaking and but sounds like running on 4 or 5 cylinders. I can now hear the old fuel pump running almost constantly – it never used to do this.

Replaced fuel pump with new Bosch pump from NZEFI, looks identical to stock. Still running rough, new fuel pump running almost constantly.

Cleaned fuel injectors using this method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUUgR94drxg
- this seemed to get it idling a bit better (engine was cold), and at first I thought I had fixed it, could rev it freely when it was cold.

However after a couple minutes of idling and warming up (still sounds like on 5 cylinders) when I give it 1/3rd throttle or more it will hesitate and cut in and out. If I persist with trying to rev it, sometimes it will hesitate, cut out, cut back in then rev nearly freely up to 4000rpm or so. If I try and drive down the street, under 1/3rd throttle or more it will surge violently, cut in and out, if I back off the throttle I can drive it at around 30-40kph but its pretty temperamental.

Next I put in new spark plugs and leads, same symptoms.

Next replaced the AFM with second hand one, disconnected battery, stood on brakes, reconnected battery, same symptoms. Then I took the black cover off and turned it counter clockwise 5-10 clicks to richen the mixture. This seemed to get it to run a little bit better, but after a couple of laps around the block it was back to surging / cutting in and out.

I’ve had a look around general wiring, pulled plugs off and used contact cleaner. Pulled the distributor off, looks fine, the gears at the bottom which I think is the Camshaft Angle Sensor look fine.



Not sure what to do next, what do these symptoms sound like to you? It seems like it gets worse as the car warms up.

As a side note, after installing the second hand AFM now the temperature gauge goes to above hot as soon as you turn on the ignition.
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...