Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I'm looking for a place that can work on the transfer case to front diff driveshaft that is found on GTRs, GTS4s and stageas. The universal joints in them are permanent from the factory, meaning that it would require machine work to remove the old ones and hopefully fit some generic ones. I'm hoping for a place that has experience doing that and at a reasonable price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473043-driveshaft-shops-in-canberra/
Share on other sites

The most economical solution is to replace with a good used one, they rarely fail. We have plenty of shafts out at Trojan Motorsport.

You would have nothing but trouble and expense trying to replace with aftermarket joints, mainly due to size and balancing issues.

I understand Award Diffs is temporarily closed due to a personal issue in the family.

The lads at Import parts will most likely go around to Trojans.

Sorry to sound like a fanboy but thems the facts.

Thanks guys. I purchased one on ebay before reading the replies here. Rust has very much set in at the transfer case side uni joint, so unfortunately catastrophic mechanical failure is always an option.

Seems like water made its way into the joint, causing it to grind and open more of a cavity and allowing more contaminants to enter. Ill stick some boat grease on the next one.

 

  • Like 1

OK so. Back on the hunt for a driveshaft. I purchased an R33 GTR driveshaft with no play, however it doesn't work on an auto stagea. Well, almost works. The part technically fits in, but an R33 GTR shaft has a larger diameter at the transfer case side, and tapers down at the diff side -  compared to the stagea one which has a constant diameter.

One of the balancing tabs on the shaft is fouling against the parking lock cable. Meaning that the shaft technically cleared the transmission, but the extra ~1.5mm causes it to foul. :4_joy::4_joy: Oh the joys. The cable (which is encased in a metal tube, which is what is fouling) is hard up against the transmission, so I don't think I can bend it out of the way.

Stav, do you work at Trojan? I tried to call a couple of times - no answer today.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...