Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks guys for all the tips....thanks heaps "gtst" give me a couple of weeks to budget all my money and i will definately get a new computer and fmic....i know i need it .... and yeah "jam*353" i do need to know how to launch on 1st gear coz all i do is wheel spin ....

thanks again guys....

  • 2 months later...

If the MX6 has even a half decent driver you won't beat him off the line, even with the MX6 being front wheel drive. With a boost controller and a $200 ECU mod that 5psi changes to 15psi and the car is completely different again.

But after that, if the MX6 is pretty stock you should run it down. But be aware there when you pull up against them lately as there is alot of these cars pushing over 220kW ATW.

:whip:

If the MX6 has even a half decent driver you won't beat him off the line, even with the MX6 being front wheel drive. With a boost controller and a $200 ECU mod that 5psi changes to 15psi and the car is completely different again. 

But after that, if the MX6 is pretty stock you should run it down. But be aware there when you pull up against them lately as there is alot of these cars pushing over 220kW ATW.

:whip:

The fact that a stock mx6 makes around 90kw@flywheel, to have 220kw@wheels would mean a heap of $$ would have to be spend on them. There would be bugger all of them running anywhere near that power level

They're rated at 108kW @ fw actually, I have a few friends that are MX6 nuts :D They're a ridiculously torquey motor though, peak power isn't the full story.

The fact that a stock mx6 makes around 90kw@flywheel, to have 220kw@wheels would mean a heap of $$ would have to be spend on them. There would be bugger all of them running anywhere near that power level

There is 3 of them within 15mins drive of where I live.... And money wise, if you where to do it on the cheap, it would cost around $5k - $6k depending on how much work you did yourself. So, on top of a purchase price of $6k, that is a pretty quick car for only $11k. On that topic, 2 of those 3 cars are for sale if anyone wants one ;)

i thought i'd throw this in here as my friend from work as a tx5 turbo. same engine, right?

he has a full 3" exhaust, pod, and cai and made 118kw@front wheels

then ported the head and turned the wick up tyo 10psi so should be making at least 130kw at the wheels...

from 0 - 160ish i beat him by 4-5 car lengths... my cars mods are: 3" turbo back except cat (2.5"), FMIC, 12psi, re-chip ECU, rb26 cams

so yes they (and the mx-5) do make some nice power when modded and i have seen him beat an sr20 180sx as well as numerous commonwhores

Waz.

So you recon $6,000 and you can turn a stock 90fwkw mx6 to a 220rwkw?

Yea, there is a trick though... and it is an engine swap. It is a direct fit engine (so it's not cheating in my mind anyway :P), and is pretty much identical to the SR20 engine, except by what I've seen them do, they are probably stronger (I know you are thinking, no way... but you just have to see it to believe it).

Also, for the $6k you would have to install the engine, wire up the computer etc. yourself. That is my budget anyway, and I know of people who are getting close to 200kW while spending a fair bit less. (The engine sells for less than $1000). Oh, and I didn't count all the stuff I already have on the car, such as exhaust (but I'll still need new a dump pipe etc).

Also, for being pedantic, it won't be rwkw, as it is front wheel drive, so maybe a little more power due to their being less drivetrain loss on a front wheel drive. So, on another note, the power will be there, but traction won't.

As for TX5, yea, if it is between an 88-90 then it is the same engine as the MX6.

Well I can say that after owning a R33 GTS-T ( even before most of you had one - try december 1999) that in stock form they ain't great. But yes should run down a stock Mx-6 ?

But one thing to take note of is that unlike msot Skylines imported are Type M's

Not all Mx-6 are the same a 2WS bottom range will beat a top range 4WS version. about 1 second over the 1/4 mile in performance due to weight and a definate 1 second with manual to auto gearbox.

With a R32 - You no matter what gear beat one off the mark especially stalled up auto. Mine when it ran at the illigal runs Eat VN V8's for first 150meters. Stalled up rotor different story but still in most cases up front.

I had a Cefrino with RB20 RWD auto and if had 157Kw at rear wheels straight from Japan. And it only caught up especially with stalled Mx-6 at 95km/h by 120 in was just nudging ahead.

But to make your day die, the Mx-6 up against a Type R 1.8L eat it by 3 car lengths to 50 - by 100 1 by 120 Type R in front.

Same type R same drive would never be behind the Cefrino or R32 stock GTS-T which a friend owned with 3inch. All over M5 - M4 every highway in sydney only over 160km/h woudl the nissan beahead. mind a 200SX that was runing was gone way before us but runing 18psi?

Yeah it has alot to do with driver. But also Heaps on the state of tune.

Only one R32 GTS-T I have seen at eastern Creek before WSID gone better then 14seconds. not runing slicks. And I know it had full bottom end up rebuild with HKS GT turbo on it I think a 28series but it pooled it launched but it also didn't move off boost.

But revs are fun.

Mx-6 are not super quick cars, but not all skylines are either.

Friends 13seocnd flat V8 Monaro HQ has had every skyline owner go What does it run - Them all Saying I run 13's welll, He's go the papers in the box to prove it. And photo cover on Carguide section of Daily telegraph.

Mx-6s dont' go top end and neither do some others like GSR lancers etc ( unless wild modes) but they are pains in the arse in trafic for top end powered engines.

Torque is the Key to excelleration it's why a Sr20 is better then a Rb20 IMO

originally posted by 666DAN

haha I could take an MX-6 Turbo when my car was N/A!!! Get your car to a tuner quick smart..it sounds "not quite right"

sorry mate but that is the totally and utterly the biggest piece of s hit that i have ever heard, in the lower gears you will find that a mx6 @ 10psi will totally dominate the r32 with an rb20 at 10 or even 14psi! seen it doen may times before, even seen a 10psi mx6 with 3 biggish blokes in it (including me) beat a 158rwkw r32 gtst untill a lil bit into 4th. and the r32 only had a biggish driver and a featherweight chick. either your N/A r32 wass BLOODY fast, or the mx6 turbs u were racing had a grandma driving it!

When bone stock, my R33 was beaten by a mate's manual MX6 (exhaust with dump, 12psi, k&n panel). After I got an exhaust and a wastegate bleed, I kicked his butt everywhere, we tried rollons from 100km/h, 60km/h, up to the speed limiter, basically everything except a standing start (they're frowned upon on a circuit :() and the 33 would just walk away. In the end he had 135kw@w (but bucketloads of torque), and the 33 would still toast him unless we did 3rd at 60 or something, then he'd get a bit of a lead before the 33 got into its stride.

Limbo, Dan's talking about his NA R34, before he put the turbo on. They're a fair bit quicker than the NA R32's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...