Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd be interested to know if a R33 exhaust would fit on a RS Four.  The front pipe & dump pipe look the same, but I haven't had a chance to compare the cat back section.

Also, my suspension in the Stagea is pretty firm for standard (they all look standard), handles very well for stock, would like to drop it about 25mm but that's about all.

J

Hi J, it is my understanding that an R33 4 door exhaust is pretty much the same. I am going to use the split dump and high flow cat off the R32 GTST. Then I will check and see how much I need to modify the R32 GSTST exhaust for it to fit as well. I might as well use it since it is getting a titanium exhaust with the new engine.

Our Stagea is far from firm, the spring rates may well be OK but it needs new shocks real bad. I am going to get a set of Koni Sports and move the circlips down a couple of notches. Once I work out which model shock it needs.

Then a pair of stabiliser bars and some adj caster, the steering is too light with not enouigh precision for my tastes. Should handle pretty good then. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47354-hello/page/2/#findComment-960449
Share on other sites

I have some Tein "S" springs coming from japan, they are made for the Staj with correct spring rates etc. I can get these for around $350.00. Expect around 4 week wait as they are ex Japan only. Exhausts (from what i have been told) are different to 33 2dr and 4dr, and different again from r34 stuff, if you find something that fits please let me know as i want an exh sooner rather than later.

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47354-hello/page/2/#findComment-960477
Share on other sites

Thanks SK.  That's one thing I have noticed about the Stagea, and that the steering is very light !!  About the split dump pipe you've got, is that a CES dump/front pipe ??  What sort of $$ do they retail for and who sells them?

J

Nope, it's a Performance Metalcraft fabricated stainless steel work of art, that I promptly covered with exhaust wrap. I might get it ceramic coated before I put it in the Stagea, so I can show it off. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47354-hello/page/2/#findComment-961064
Share on other sites

I have some Tein "S" springs coming from japan, they are made for the Staj with correct spring rates etc. I can get these for around $350.00. Expect around 4 week wait as they are ex Japan only. Exhausts (from what i have been told) are different to 33 2dr and 4dr, and different again from r34 stuff, if you find something that fits please let me know as i want an exh sooner rather than later.

Ken

Who is complying your car as CAM who did mine also build their own full exhaust system cat and muffler and had it emission tested so if an after maket one comes in you dont have to buy ex Nissan.

If it comes here in WA I have one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47354-hello/page/2/#findComment-961112
Share on other sites

I have always wondered about this: can you adjust the power assist on the steering to weight it up a bit?

LW.

Not easily, you could try a larger pulley on the power steering pump or a smaller pulley on the crankshaft. That would slow down the pump, but you would have to experiment with the pulley sizes till you found one that added a bit of feel but didn't make parking too tough.

Better to add some caster, that serves three purposes. It adds more feel to the steering as more caster = more resistance to steering. Plus the car turns in better because of the extra caster. More caster also helps the car drive straight. So it's a win, win, win upgrade. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47354-hello/page/2/#findComment-961266
Share on other sites

SK: Interesting, interesting. Will be good to hear what your results are.

Although its a fine line, does the Stagea lack feedback as well as being overassisted, or just overassisted?

LW.

I prefer my cars to have a fair bit of feel, turn in instantly and track straight. The Stagea doesn't quite make it on any of these. Being 4wd and heavy, there is probably a bit of wear in the radius rod bushes not helping it either. For $100 or so it's a cheap fix. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47354-hello/page/2/#findComment-961287
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just thought I'd give a quick update, the car should be done sometime next week. Didn't have any real problems at all, worked out the "aftermarket suspension issue" as well as the aftermarket exhaust without any dramas or a hole in my wallet so now I'm eagerly awaiting the day I can actually drive the thing, because I really enjoyed driving it to the compliance workshop (unreg vehicle permit)!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47354-hello/page/2/#findComment-998008
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Got the car back today. I was going to get it registered too but the Department of Transport I went to (Sherwood) didn't want to register it for me and said I have to go to Greenslopes :D Ah well, I'll get it done tomorrow morning...

Also have to put my aftermarket exhaust and lowered HKS springs back in, then I'll be set!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47354-hello/page/2/#findComment-1013940
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...