Jump to content
SAU Community

Wastegate actuator rod angle, critical?

Blue

By Blue,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Blue Enthusiast

Blue

Posted
Posted

Question for those in the know. I have been running through a long electronics upgrade on my track car over the last couple of years. I am finally getting near the end of the tunnel.

One thing I am looking at doing as part of all this is re clocking the compressor housing on my car (GT2860RS turbo) I have never been all that happy with proximity of the discharge to the exhaust manifold. The question for me is, is the angle made between the actuator rod and wastegate arm all that critical? I have seen some on quite an angle but to me is it asking for inconsistent operation as the effective mechanical advantage of the actuator changes through it's stroke. I can get it reasonably straight but not quite as straight as it is currently or the discharge is going to hit the strut tower.

I am hoping to be able to get it to form more or less a right angle when closed, but am I being unnecessarily fussy? Before anyone gets worried about changing the geometry on anything stock'ish. it is a track only car and will be running closed loop boost control and everything else dealing with boost control will be new so it will all be set up from scratch, one of the things I hope to do is to be able to run a wider range of boost pressures with a two port actuator and three port solenoid (Previously pegged at 18PSI with a basic boost tee as the old ECU was really bad at boost control)

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

should be as near to 90 degrees to the actuator for predictable boost control. its still a leaver. if you have to steep an angle it wont behave smoothly because of the lever ratio of the back pressure acting on the arm. 

also, if you have a "back pressure" issue, you can change the angle to a steeper one to make it "harder" for the back pressure to blow the gate open. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...