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About Blue

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    Rank: RB20DET
  • Birthday 07/09/1971

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    R31 coupe
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  1. And for CAMS sanctioned motorsport at least, unless it is set up as an oil separator returning to the engine via PCV applied to one rocker breather and the bottom of the can to the other rather than a catch can (So manifold vacuum when off throttle draws oil back in via the breather) any RB turbo will need at least 3L capacity. I am just about to build a new one for my HR31 and will be making it about 3.5L with an oil return to the sump and a proper filter on the outlet, one track I run at makes the 20DET hoist a lot of oil out. Hard braking followed by a very hard right hander and immediate full power twice in a lap, it spits out up to 500ml in a handful of laps, take it to Phillip Island and it did not put that much in the can over 500KM. You are not particularly likely to get pinned for it being to small at most track days but who needs to give a grumpy scrutineer something easy to knock you back for.
  2. Blue

    Hi Mike, I assume you would be aware of the Prince register? Jason as listed in the post above yours would be a great place to start. Lots of really passionate Prince guys there.
  3. A quick question, can you get spare parts? I have a set of APRA spec Yellowspeeds on an N15 Pulsar and I like the top spring plate design with the integrated bearing. Just interested if the top plates are available as spares so I can look into if they would fit in the coilover setup I have in another car? That is currently using VS Commodore strut bearings between the spring and top plates but they are exposed to dirt.
  4. Blue

    As someone who flat refuses to pay money for Rupert TV (And the only thing I would watch on it would be F1) it is a sad reflection that the pinnacle of my F1 coverage for the year is a telecast including a three lap ad break six laps from the finish. The only way they will get my eyeballs back will be if I can dodge the geoblock on the new streaming service (Or they launch it in Aus, presumably the Ten deal, now novated to Foxtel prevents that until it expires)
  5. Blue

    To comment on blackrex's post above, yes, it is simple to deal with custom messages. I have done custom messages both in in my PDM and my ECU for the dash and it was no problem to get them working correctly. One was a counter in the PDM to act as a brightness control for the dash (Easy, counter from 3 to 10, incrementing and decrementing with keypad buttons, defaulting to 6 on power up with the value sent on the CAN bus) that is a simple message with a multiplier of 10 to tun it onto a percentage for brightness. The other being a "Fuel used" signal from the ECU to increment a fuel usage value in the dash. Likewise a pit lane limiter signal out of the PDM that turns the limiter on in the ECU but also changes the way the dash behaves. I would hate to go back to something less sophisticated now.
  6. Blue

    Sweet, I will grab them when I get home. Haltech are remarkably reticent to release them, the only one I had seen was from some years ago and apparently quite obsolete with a number of new or changed messages. Now I wish I could just find the CAN message set for a Madza 3 MPS. A mate has one with an AIM dash in it but very few of the parameters that were advertised as being available for the car (Which led to him buying the dash) actually appear. I may have to go CAN sniffing for him and that will be time consuming to say the least. He want's to do proper logging so he does not really want to go OBD2 and low data rate, through it might be better for him that when he has now, he is only getting very basic engine data, no boost pressure etc.
  7. Blue

    It is not in the C127 manager. I just downloaded the latest one today to check if they had added it. In C127 manager they have the old V1 message set as a compound message, or as individual 4 channel messages on 010, 011, 012 hex etc. Not that it matters to me (I have an Emtron KV8 ECU) but what MoTec software is it in? I occasionally get help requests from mates.
  8. Blue

    If you can track down the Haltech V2 CAN message set the MoTec can display it. I have seen it about but I have not got it to hand. It is not all that hard to build a receive template for the MoTec dashes once you have a look at a few. I will say that the racepak/Haltech and MoTec dash build quality is like chalk and cheese. The C127 weighs a lot more than an IQ3 but in comparison feels like it has been machines out of a billet! (They might be for all I know)
  9. Blue

    To keep it in the right spirit for the thread, my setup in mostly complete guise. Data coming from the ECU over CAN to test that I have it functioning properly.
  10. Blue

    Bit late to the party, I had a Haltech branded IQ3 logger and to be honest I found the software and configurability very limiting. Not to mention it had a dose of the dreaded "Segment loss" issue that earlier ones had. No idea about the later ones. I ended up selling it as when I sent it back for repair they were nice enough to update the firmware for me. Read that to mean that they changed it to the Haltech V2 CAN protocol and it would no longer work with the old ECU that I yanked out of my HR31 to put in something else without paying to send it back to the states again to have the CAN version changed. I got pissed about it and sold it. I replaced it in the HR31 with a MoTec C127 with logging and I/O enabled. I/O I no longer need as such as I updated the ECU as well and the things I wanted that for I am inputting to my ECU and sending to the dash over CAN. About the only thing I will now use that for is a signal to trigger in car cameras when the logger starts running so I don't have to remember to do it myself. The MoTec is far from cheap but IMO the IQ3 is geriatric and showing it, you get what you pay for.
  11. I can live with dropping a little lower RPM performance, so long as I can also live with the potential extra maintenance cost of anti lag! One issue I face no matter what is the range of housings with a T3 flange is pretty limited. Dyno sheets from when the car was tuned, I would not want to loose too much at the low end or midrange. Bearing in mind that the car could easily make more at the same boost, given the total lack of engine protection on the old E11 I asked for and received a nice safe tune. Before and after on these sheets is a proper tune at 18PSI versus a very rough track tune at 13.
  12. I will dig out the dyno sheet from hen it was tuned when I get home. Suffice to say it was on boost pretty early for a 20 and it was/is pretty snappy.
  13. Without digging too deep the 7064 can be had with a T3 flange, I would just need to dig in to maps to see how it compares with the potato. All this is a little by the by anyway as I doubt the money will be there to throw a new snail at it this year, but you never know. I can see up to about $5K between it and back on track as it is so it is not really very likely to be changed this year, but I tend to plan these tings a long way ahead. The RS is snappy enough on it that I gave up on closed loop control with the previous ECU (Old E11 Haltech) as it was impossible to dial out big boost spikes at high RPM. The new ECU just about has more tables for closed loop than the E11 did for everything it had. Edit: Whatever ends up on it next what I would really like to do though is get rid of the split adapter. Aside from anything else I have had constant issues with the tiny T25 nuts and studs undoing in use. At least it was easy to get a lock tab for the T3 setup.
  14. So, a long long time since I posted on SAU, and my eyes glazed over a long long way back in this thread. Here is the bones of it, I have had my track car off track for nearly three years for a full wiring and electronics refresh (Wiring, PDM, dash, ECU) and as usual time and money had their way. Long story short I hope to have the car running again in the next month or so. The car has a GT2860RS (.64 exhaust housing) on a redtop RB20DET making 208RWKW on 98 RON at 18PSI while being nice and snappy for the usual uses of the car, short tracks with slow corners and hillclimbs. The turbo is on one of those horrid little T3 to T25 adapters on the standard manifold and I would love to get rid of it. I know the RB20 in any guise is getting long in the tooth but have people had much success with the EFR turbos on these? The only advice I have had is "Go a size bigger than you think'. What I would love is if the newer design would give me the same kind of small turbo responsiveness without choking it as much at higher revs. My biggest wants on a conversion would be marginal to no loss of lower rev range performance, T3 bolt on (Unless the T3 to T4 adapters are a better thing than the two part T3 to T25 ones) and after that a bit of an extension of higher RPM capability. Am I dreaming? My other thought was to build an adapter to take it to a V band turbine and fit the .72 A/R housing and an external gate.
  15. Ta, that is what I thought, it was sold as a non ABS cylinder but Dan who owns the car would not know the difference, the main thing was to get the Japanese booster so that we have the correct bolt pattern. Aus R31 has the master cylinder flange bolts at an angle where Japanese ones are horizontal, going to a JDM booster lets us use bigger master cylinders without as much stuffing around. No difference to me it being an ABS cylinder, we will just fit an external prop valve in the cabin. It is a track only car so no legality to worry about and it is not going to be set up the same as the donor car so bias tweaks are almost certain to be needed to get the best out of it. I am seriously looking at a bias box and twin cylinders on my own car so we might even pinch my master cylinder (Bigger again, 17/16" off a Navara) and bias valve to get Dan's car on the track as my car is off-track for a few months for a tidy up.