Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Or what i could do is get a gts and keep that until i am off my P's then what i could do is stick a turbo into it, as the insurance willl be much cheaper then, as i would be off my P's.

By the way i will send u an email funky monkey.

If you're going to do a turbo conversion, you may as well just get a GTS-t now, since the cost to convert to one (plus value of the car) will probably come out more than an original GTS-t.

I'm not sure how much a non-turbo R32 GTS goes for but a RB20DET on it's own costs ~$1k based on what I've seen in the For Sale forum. A straight bolt-on isn't going to turn a RB20DE into a genuine RB20DET. The turbo isn't the only difference (different compression ratio hence piston work or new pistons, less oil runners?, you'll need new manifolds for the turbo). Then you have to consider the rest of the drivetrain, brakes, labour cost and getting it engineered.

If you are set on turbo performance, then I say "Turbo or nothing". You will save heaps if you can be patient. It's just a matter of whether you want to be patient or not. The difference in insurance for turbo vs. non-turbo isn't that great, so it's not really an issue.

About the only issue (according to your age) is if you get a GTS-t you will get hassled by cops (irrespective of power-to-weight legalities, you will still get hassled). I bought my GTS-t off a P-Plater and one of the reasons for his sale was he was sicked of being hassled by cops. I'm so glad I didn't get a turbo Skyline until now..

:)

The allure of owning a Skyline at that age is very tempting (I know, I wanted one but couldn't afford it at the time). I sometimes regret not having one back then, purely for the cool (wank) factor :headspin:, but each time I sit into my car I have no regrets. ;)

Rayage how much did u get your r32 for? And how much are u paying for insurance?, what other cars are out there that are fast that u would suggest for a first car. I dont mind the VR commodore, but then again it doesn't fasinate me compared to what a skyline does. I am so annoyed what my friends are saying bout me getting a non-turbo skyline, but i can afford one, but its my dad that doesn't let me. Do any of u guys know how to convince people? cos i can't seem to convince my dad, what should i say? cos i really do want a turbo gts-t.

lol you could buy a cefiro... i mean its a four door turbo car, goes pretty good and its nice to chuck around. Parents wouldn't object to a car like that.

I think your old man's worried about you speeding and crashing etc, but it dosen't matter if you have a GTS or a GTSt, both cars get to the same speeds, one just gets there a lil quicker, that's all.

I paid $15.5k for my 92 GTS-t. The market value for one is about $13k - $14.5k, so I paid a little bit more but got quite a number of goodies with it. Although it's not perfect I must say; there are a number of things that need fixing tho (nothing major, yet :rofl:, thankfully).

I currently have 3rd party property insurance, which is $399 through Just Cars. I'm still a little torn about whether I should go to full-comp through Shannons or leave it as 3rd party property (since I still don't believe in paying ~$2k per annum on insurance for a 12 year old car).

I dunno about convincing your dad tho... it really is up to you to demonstrate to him that you can handle a car responsibly. You also have to consider the power-to-weight ratio legality, since not all R32 GTS-ts are 'legal' for P platers (the later model ones are since they are heavier, so I'm told... but you'd better research this). Funkymonkey is correct in saying a GTS isn't any less dangerous than a GTS-t. Just that one has more power than the other stock for stock. And one doesn't necessarily deliver it's power in the most linear of fashion, too (so you'll have to be watchful of how you flex your right foot - esp. in the wet). Let's be objective here, all cars are dangerous if you drive recklessly or beyond the abilities of yourself or the car. I can't really suggest what is a good first car, tho, since everybody's abilities are different. But generally, I personally wouldn't recommend a turbo car as a first car for a (soon-to-be) P plater (which I presume you are judging by your age). Your first car will be dictated by what you can afford to buy and run. Particularly the 'run' aspect. You'll have to budget some money to fix up all the little things (and perhaps significant things, like a timing belt change).

Personally, I think you should sit down and have a good objective think about what you will be getting yourself into if you get a turbo car. You'll have to factor in: maintenace cost, insurance cost, copbait (P plater), how good your nerves are :headspin: since you'll proly be paranoid about leaving your car anywhere else except at home, how skilled you are at driving (be honest... I drove for 4 years on FWD cars on both manual and auto and the difference between FWD and RWD is like night and day, and more so in the wet), petrol cost, how responsible you are (will you TLGP every car you see?). You gotta understand that owning a turbo car or any sports car isn't so much about ownership but a responsiblity you undertake. It's not just a box/shell with four wheels that goes faster than most other boxes/shells with four wheels. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...