Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys UAS has a GTS-T kit developed and ready to go, with a GTR kit on the way.

The kits include thermostats and oil filter relocation.

Details will be posted soon, in the interim however call John on (02) 9634 8000 and he will give you the run down

On their website, $1150 including oil cooler.

Filter relocation is $380 for earls and $280 for Greddy.

So are you telling us something new?

Reply with either expressions of interest, or facts and dollars.

And you need a thermostat. Cold oil can damage your engine.

I can get it for $118USD. But check the shipping!

Ground GRED 12003001 Greddy, Oil Filter Relocation Kits Universal 3/4 X 16UNF 1 122.51 122.51

Total Products 122.51

Shipping 100.00

Total 222.51

Have asked for confirmation.

sorry didnt wrie it down

but the cooler is a 1.5*7.5*24 inch affair so it would go infront of the radiator(as in its large)

will get the part number tommorow

pete

http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/

Permacool Universal Engine Oil Cooler Kits

Part No Part No Description

Sandwich/Remote Style Kits

PC69189 PC69195 150 Horsepower Coil size: 3/4" x 7-1/2" x 12-1/2"

PC10189 PC10195 250 Horsepower Coil size: 1-1/2" x 7" x 14"

PC40189 PC40195 450 Horsepower Coil size: 1-1/2" x 7" x 21"

Note: These are S shaped coolers with fins. Permacool use rubber hoses, not braid.

I want braid - don't want it to rub through and f* up

yup rubber hoses (if you want the want of braided go for it)

but if you use 1/20th of your brain and place the hoses corectly they wont rub through(would have to be a particularly dodgy job if they did)

its all about surface area and these coolers have far more than the others mentioned above and are cheaper

pete

yup rubber hoses (if you want the want of braided go for it)

but if you use 1/20th of your brain and place the hoses corectly they wont rub through(would have to be a particularly dodgy job if they did)

its all about surface area and these coolers have far more than the others mentioned above and are cheaper

pete

Isent that rocket industries one a bit of an overkill unless you plan on circuit racing your car alot?

Do they have one available that can be mounted near one of the mesh slots on a 400r front bar?

I'm thinking one of these would do the job nicely:  

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=7913507684

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=7913508093

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=7913508887

Very similar to the Trust/GREX oil cooler design, but way cheaper! :D

These are the cheap chinese ones. $650 delivered in Aus in other threads...

If you want cheap shite then spend $90 on the adapter plates from Earls http://www.earls.com.au and then connect it up with garden hose, bullwire, irrigation connectors, and araldite. :)

I thought:

- we're looking at quality products that will protect our engines (often worth more than the price of a new car). A split line or popped fitting can drain your engine in seconds.

- there is limited space, high temps and sharp angles in GTR engine bays and IMPO rubber is not a reasonable option unless you cable tie it to everything in sight and use foam insulation around the bends.

- a huge oil cooler without a reliable thermostat would eventually ruin your engine. And for an oil cooler of that size I'd want a drain plug on it. Or buy two of them and use the second one as an intercooler.

Watcjh for duty and GTS if you're thinking about these units. :Bang:

Sorry to hijack thread guys, but have been doing a lot of research on coolers and I believe this is a good quality and well priced item proven by SAU members and SAU members get a discount. Plus it is customizable. Check this thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...6231#post966231

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...