Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive been in contact with Calder park raceway in regards to the Off Street Drags as a club event.

The Conditions are as Follows

We need a MINUMUM of 15 cars.

Prices for club members.

$45 to compete

$10 to spectate

There will also be a trophy awarded for the fastest and slowest car on the day, and we are also welcome to have a bbq, etc to make it more of a club day. We would also be pitted in the infeild.

We need to get back to them ASAP so, can I have some rock solid confirmations on this?

Cheers

Ex

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4776-calder-park-sunday-24th-november/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 196
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The stockers would be too embarrassed, but from the times I've seen coming out of SAu, the fast R31's are gonna run you guys into the ground! :lol:

But if you don't mind us tagging along, then all should be fine.:)

Originally posted by R31 Skyline Chick

The stockers would be too embarrassed, but from the times I've seen coming out of SAu, the fast R31's are gonna run you guys into the ground! :lol:  

But if you don't mind us tagging along, then all should be fine.:)

whats the quickest time the R31 guys have done?

Yeah? nice!

The last lot of times I saw come out of here were 14-15ish

I just changed our cruise date, and put in a link to this thread...

See if anyone else puts their hand up....

Im gonna get people yelling at me for having too many events organised:(

IM DOWN!!

unlike inasnt who goes down on men. :)

i will be hoping to break into the 14s with a couple of small mods done by then... so long as i can get to Dr Driftz0rs house to get them done :D other things keep popping up

hahaha actually i have a wedding on the 10th of nov and the 24th as well

i really cbf going to either of them

might have a full on maco wedding to play music at this weekend

not getting paid, but its full on maco, so that means at least $300 in tips

hopefully i can play




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...