Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

I’m sorry to those who have those flaps of rubber that come off the bonnet.

This is the exact reason that you are having trouble making the guides fit.

I do not have those on my car, and it looks like they never have been there.

They are in the same place that I put the foam to stop the bonnet rubbing on the panel.

If you remove the rubber flaps, they should fit without a problem.

Again, I’m sorry but it looks like you will need to remove the rubber flaps to make the guide fit.

BASS OUT

  • Replies 175
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Okay guys.

Good news. I just picked up the guide blanks from my subbie.

They are getting bent as we speak.

I will bring the appropriate amount to the Meeting tonight if anyone wants to pick them up then.

Other people, I will send them off tomorrow arvo.

Cheers

BASS OUT

GroundRun.

I'll be at the Skyline Club meeting at the pub in Hawthorn tonight from 8pm onwards, otherwise you can give me a call and pick it up between 5:30 and 7:30 from my work.

Call me, 0419 101 639

y.

Interstate people.... Your guides are all boxed up and awaiting the truck.

Afro, Erik and Coxy, you should see your guides in day or two.

Coxy, please sort out the payment, you have all the details.

Melbourne people, NismoR34, GroundRun and CNBLOW let me know when you can come and pick them up.

I'm in Mitcham or Doncaster.......

Come and git em.

BASS OUT

PS. Don't forget my trader rating and VOTE FOR MY CAR ON AUSSIEWHEELS!

NismoR34, CNBLOW

I'll be at home all this weekend, apart from the obligatory grandfinal BBQ at my sisters house.

I will bring the guides home with me, so if you give me a call, we can meet up.

0419 101 639

Tonight is good, and Sunday is also good.

Just give me a bell, and we'll organise something.

CHEERS

BASS OUT

Ground Run???

When you gonna call??

I'm bringing the guides home with me this weekend so give me a bell.

Also, could the people with standard bars take a couple of photos please??

Just want to have them on record so I know that they were right.

Cheers

BASS OUT.

ALSO< check out the new project.... AFM to Turbo Ducts.

Well done... now go and clean your engine bay, it's filthy... shame on you!

I fitted mine on too... I left you feedback Peter :( I'll take some pics later today.

:D

Well done... now go and clean your engine bay, it's filthy... shame on you!

I fitted mine on too... I left you feedback Peter :( I'll take some pics later today.

:D

:Oops: I working on that now!!!! hehe itll be clean soon

Thanks Matt.

I'm glad the bars all fit very well.

Like I said Matt, "Trust me, If I'm making it, it will be right."

BASS OUT

Well there was some sunshine this afternoon so I went out and took some nice shots of my car.. here's a shot of my shiny new air guide:

In the words of the Irish guys in the Guinness TV commercial, Brilliant~! :D

airguide1.jpg

i have to modify mine alot (c-west front bar),

i started modifying the front bar,, but than decided to hack up the guide,,

so didn't do to much damage to the bar, will show in pics later,,

i'll have to remove the whole front lip of the guide, coz my front grill/mesh wont fit, the front lip of the guide sticks out too far,, once again will post pics later on,,

will update the changes soon,,,

thanks

Afro

Hey Bass..thanks for the guide...i went to put it on but it wouldnt fit past the bonnet unhook latch...i noticed on the guide a marking where it was hitting where i assume it was supposed to be cut but wasnt cut...after follwing the line with a hacksaw blade, i cut out a little section and then it was spot on...dont know if anyone else had the same problem with the standard bar...nevermind it fts now and looks good....

thanks.......oh and i hope u sorted out the cabbie :P

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...