Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I was just wandering if anyone out there knows where i can get the measurements of the size of a R32 gtst skyline boot?

Or

If someone would be kind enough to go and measure theirs if they have a spare 5 mins and just pm me them?

Or if no one could be bothered to do that for me just some rough measurements off the top of you heads?

Sorry for asking what would seem like a stupid question, but i need to know this before i go anyfurther into looking for one!

Cheers!

Yes well i need to know because i will be transporting some stuff (for a practice (like a doctors etc....) ) and i have a bad back, so i cant bend in and out of the side of the car trying to get it out!

Basically if the boots big enough, i could just whack it in the boot then!

and no subs.... i like to have a car with more kw than db.

cmon guys, go measure up! i have a 33 and i imagine the boot space is similar, not much at all. but the advantage i guess is that you dont have to lean far into it coz its short (around 600mm), good for a crook back....

-rb25

might help you a bit... r33 bootside is a little smaller than an r32 (due to the battery an things being in there)

R33_Schematic_Type_G_Side.gif

R33_Schematic_Type_G_Top.gif

R33_Schematic_Type_S_Side.gif

R33_Schematic_Type_S_Top.gif

You think he want to put a body in there ?? (j/k) :)

youd neet to cut the legs off it first. you can actually fit 2 bodies in this way plus a shovel and other digging/dismembering implements.

-rb25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...