Jump to content
SAU Community

Perplexing issue with Intelli key

Bentley88
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bentley88 Newbie

Bentley88

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi, 

In short my problem is that since my mechanic fixed a wiring issue,

- the range for unlocking my car is severely reduced (5m down from like 40m) 

- when you hit the lock button several times the headlights no longer come on (as they used to to help you see it when you lose it in the car park) 

- my left wing mirror doesn't fold in when locked (the right one still does) 

... 

The work he did was to fix the bundle of wires that go to the back of the car - some had shorted together. He also disconnected the battery at the time to reset the computer.

I have also had an issue (in the past) with water leaking from above the windscreen down into the body control module - since "fixed" by drying and silicone spraying the module. Water is not an issue this time round as the car is bone dry.

... 

I suspect that the issue is a result of the work that the mechanic last did. But I don't know where the problem would be: intelligent key module, wiring, BCM, a mix of the above.

Also not sure of there is somehow a software glitch as a result of disconnecting the battery.

Edited by Bentley88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481870-perplexing-issue-with-intelli-key/
Share on other sites
V35_Paul Veteran

V35_Paul

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a few possible causes.

Bad earth.

Group of wires pinched together to tight so that they get crossed wired.

If you have a Dash Cam with the USB cable running down the A Pillar it can interfere with your key.

Left mirror still folds in when you activate it?

Electronics sometimes do strange things :wacko:

 

  • Thanks 1
Bentley88 Newbie

Bentley88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah could very well be the wiring, I might have a look and see if there is anything obvious in the area the mechanic worked. Bad earth also a good suggestion.

No dash cam in the car.

Left mirror doesn't fold at in response to locking/unlocking. But it can still be adjusted from the drivers side via the toggle...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • gifted1
      Will r33 gtr front reo fit on r33 gtst series 1?

      By gifted1 路 Posted

      *monitoring this thread*  馃槑
    • PranK
      New lightweight, square wheel/tyre combo for the E90

      By PranK 路 Posted

      Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Kinkstaah
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
    • GTSBoy
      34 de+t conversion using s2 stagea automatic transmission, engine harness and ecu

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.
脳
脳
  • Create New...