Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTR Clutch/Trans issues

anobahar
 Share

Recommended Posts

anobahar Newbie

anobahar

Posted
Posted

Hello everyone, new to this forum. New owner of an R33 GTR, bought it around last week. Have since drove the car about 2000 miles.

Since I got it the transmission has felt a bit "crunchy". Chalked it up to slight synchro wear, no biggie it's a 26 yo car that I got for a good deal. Not really sure if the clutch is stock or not.

Then I noticed a slight scraping sound upon having the clutch pedal released. Almost has a tapping sound that goes with it. Goes away when I press the clutch in.

Then within the last 24 hours, the issue has got so bad that I actually can't get into reverse, and the rest of the gears extremely crunchy. Along with this, the noise no longer immediately goes away when pressing the clutch pedal in, it takes a few seconds now to go away. As soon as the noise is gone, gears are free and I can get into them all smoothly again. Seems like some sort of a bearing or something gone bad, not sure about the technicalities on that.

Finally, I have tried adjusting the clutch pedal already. The clutch bites pretty evenly throughout the pedal, and has absolutely no bite when all the way down. It starts to free up just at the very top, so there is a lot of pedal travel with it. Probably can't make it bite any higher, will start to slip during regular driving.

I will say there is about an inch of dead pedal in the clutch. Clutch reservoir is filled all the way up.

Really would appreciate any input before I pull the trans and start throwing unknown parts at it. Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481903-r33-gtr-clutchtrans-issues/
Share on other sites
r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted

The only thing you can try with out pulling the box is bleeding the hydraulic system for the clutch and make sure the pedal bracket isn’t broken (has happened a lot). After that you’re pulling the box out to inspect everything in there to find the issue

anobahar Newbie

anobahar

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I will try that I suppose, although it doesn't explain the noise. I have a feeling it's the input shaft bearing in the box causing this noise.

"Suppose you hear the noise when the vehicle is standing still, the trans is in Neutral and the clutch is fully engaged (clutch pedal fully released). Most likely, this is noisy input shaft bearings. It’s not likely to be a bad clutch release bearing because there’s no substantial load on that bearing at this time. An easy, additional test is to apply some light load to the release bearing by resting your foot on the clutch pedal. If doing this doesn’t change the noise at all, it’s additional proof that the noise is inside the trans (input shaft bearings) rather than outside it (clutch release bearing)."

While pulled I might as well do the synchros too. I've never rebuilt a manual transmission before but I've built more than a few engines, so i'm sure I'll be able to figure it out. Any good source of documentation on this procedure specific to an R33 GTR box?

I suppose the only issue with this diagnosis is I'm not sure if a bad input shaft bearing would cause the box to not want to go into gear.

Edited by anobahar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...