Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HEy GUYS!

Just wanted to know, what would be a fair price to pay for a GTR VSPEC 98 ? Does anyone know how many were made?

I saw a few GRIP videos and saw the NSX in action. They look awesome. But I don't think HONDA V6 VTEC is nothing compare to the RB26DETT.

GIVEN THAT YOU HAVE THE MONEY TO BUY EITHER A GTR VSPEC or a NSX. WHAT WOULD YOU WANT AND WHY???

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48197-how-much-for-a-gtr-vspec-98/
Share on other sites

Well infact snowman gave us a little review of both cars since he's owned both an NSX and now owns a GTR. Not word for word, but his final opinion was the GTR all the way. The NSX was more a cruiser, and less performance/driver car.

But to answer your question... depends, is the car a legit GTR?, do you want mods, and all I can say is good luck in finding good clean legit GTR, let alone the rarest of all the the Series 3 GTR's... hang I think mines for sale. :)

Even if not on a Skyline forum the NSX is an overpriced pile of crap. It's often referred to a rich man's Civic. The only reason it does so well in racing is because the track version is so far removed from the street version you're essentially only identifying the car by the shape.

In every market on the planet except for the US, the NSX is a very overpriced machine - the engine is at the limit to produce the power to do 5 sec 0-100 and 13 sec quarters.

The GT-R is an understressed motor that is at it's LOWEST state of tune to produce similar numbers.

The NSX is not a tuning, modding car unlike Skylines.

It is not 4wd and will not produce the all round performance of a Skyline.

It is a rare car though.

T.

thanks guy for your effort.

It makes more sense why one should buy a SKYLINE GTR instead of NSX in OZ land. They are practical in terms of performance and parts availability. I saw maybe 2 NSX within the last 6 months and more of GTRs. I thought they look pretty COOL, but at 65k for a 92 model....................ummmmhhhh.......QUESTION MARK

thanks guy for your effort.  

It makes more sense why one should buy a SKYLINE GTR instead of NSX in OZ land. They are practical in terms of performance and parts availability. I saw maybe 2 NSX within the last 6 months and more of GTRs. I thought they look pretty COOL, but at 65k for a 92 model....................ummmmhhhh.......QUESTION MARK

How many times have you seen someone bag out Skylines because they are too common? People are willing to pay for individuality and the NSX has it. Plus it's probably the best Honda has to offer in that area, and some people really like Honda.

Actually speaking to a guy at work the other day who plans to buy a NSX when the coin count allows. He loves them.

He says that all NSX engines are balanced/blueprinted and all hand built from factory. He says they also all have titanium rods and forged pistons I think.

He isnt one to make up crap so is this true?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...