Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an autech axis-s m35 stagea and am fairly keen to manual swap it so I figured this is probably the best place to ask. How many here have experience with manual swapping an m35 stagea, will all the necessary drivetrain and interior parts on v35's and 350z's swap over relatively easily or will there be lots of modification and fabricating required? Cheers for any advice and tips. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482628-m35-manual-swap/
Share on other sites

I only know of one workshop that has done it, not sure about people doing it themselves. It's pretty straight-forward, just need to extend the starter motor cable as it'll sit on the opposite side.

It's also recommended to get an aftermarket ECU as the revs don't drop quick enough when backing off to shift.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482628-m35-manual-swap/#findComment-7953984
Share on other sites

In that article it states "G35 Infinity right hand starter motor – due to the M35 left hand side starter motor hitting the added turbo drain hose/turbo feed on the V35 sump, it is best to convert it to the drivers side as there is a lot more room. We purchased a G35 starter motor from the USA."

This wouldn't be necessary in my case right? As I have a RWD VQ35DE rather than a Vq25det so the stock sump should mate to the trans and not need any modifications. Either that or I'm being stupid, prove me wrong if I am

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482628-m35-manual-swap/#findComment-7953999
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
On 7/16/2021 at 7:14 PM, Akshunhiro said:

I only know of one workshop that has done it, not sure about people doing it themselves. It's pretty straight-forward, just need to extend the starter motor cable as it'll sit on the opposite side.

It's also recommended to get an aftermarket ECU as the revs don't drop quick enough when backing off to shift.

This can all be changed within the ecu logic. 

The problem in the past is that people have manually swapped cars, and the ecus are sitll running the automatic logic functions. It isnt going to end well unless these things are changed. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482628-m35-manual-swap/#findComment-7966333
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...