Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I hope it's OK to ask these questions in here, I've tried searching and can't seem to find answers to my specific questions.

A friend and I recently picked up and RB25DET series 2 and gearbox that we plan on re-building to replace my RB20 running gear but to start off with, the engine did not come with the cam gears and I'd like to know what is my best option in order to replace these? I'd like to keep the VCT functionality so should I just be chasing a stock intake cam gear (as my understanding is aftermarket cam gears will make me lose VCT)? And if so, are these interchangeable with rb25 neo cam gears?

Secondly (and I know this has been detailed before but am chasing confirmation), am I better off keeping my RB20 ECU and wiring and getting it nistuned & making the requisite changes to wiring for AFM/VCT etc? Or should I just use the R33 ecu and loom I got with the engine?

Finally, should I just keep my RB20 AFM or is it with worth changing up to a pink label rb25 afm?

If you think I've missed something here, please let me know.

Thanks,

32_love

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483726-rb25det-series-2-into-r32-questions/
Share on other sites

Yes use factory cam gears, Can't swap r33 & 34 VCT gear

Yes you can use the 32 loom but for ease of tuning just get a Link Ecu plugin and then run wires for VCT & Wastegate solenoid. Nistune is no longer supporting R33 ecu so would need a window switching unit for vct control if using r32 Ecu. AIf going with Nistune go the r35 AFM upgrade so much better than the early afm.
Depending where you are in Brisbane I can help sort wiring & ecu setup with either ecu.

Budget also for simple stuff like new fuel & vac hose, some sensor connectors, probably coil packs and a clutch while you have it apart

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
    • Perfect! Thanks for this, both look like great options!
×
×
  • Create New...