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Issues running with my rb20DEneo

Kaleb

By Kaleb,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

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Kaleb Newbie

Kaleb

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Posted

So I’ve had this car for about three months and it’s had a weird issue running since the day I bought it. Anytime I start it and it’s cold it’s runs good until it’s warmed up but after it’s warmed up and I drive it it starts to sputter when driving it almost seems like it has a misfire but it’s only noticeable when you are stopping and going I have no idea what it could be I looked at the spark plugs and they seem fine just a little worn but I’m starting to think it’s a cool pack issue I’ve gone through my vac lines and it seems like there is no leaks 

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robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

If this is happening as car gets warmer I'd be looking at the following:
Ignitor module
Coil packs
Fuel pump and associated electrical components.
Alternator output voltage

Also check that the motor is grounded back to the chassis and all grounds are clean.

Kaleb Newbie

Kaleb

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5 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

If this is happening as car gets warmer I'd be looking at the following:
Ignitor module
Coil packs
Fuel pump and associated electrical components.
Alternator output voltage

Also check that the motor is grounded back to the chassis and all grounds are clean.

This is gonna sound dumb but what’s the igniter module 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

There is no igniter module. Robbo saw RB20 and glossed over the fact that it's a Neo, that doesn't have one. The old R32 era RB20s did. Your igniters are built into your coils.

All the advice to check ignition components is valid, however hot misfires from failing ignition components usually tend to show up under higher load, rather than just off idle. My question is, is it actually a misfire that you're experiencing, or more of a stumble to near stall? Dirty idle control valves can cause nasty transition from driving to stopping and vice versa. As can dirty TB.

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robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

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25 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

There is no igniter module. Robbo saw RB20 and glossed over the fact that it's a Neo, that doesn't have one. The old R32 era RB20s did. Your igniters are built into your coils.

All the advice to check ignition components is valid, however hot misfires from failing ignition components usually tend to show up under higher load, rather than just off idle. My question is, is it actually a misfire that you're experiencing, or more of a stumble to near stall? Dirty idle control valves can cause nasty transition from driving to stopping and vice versa. As can dirty TB.

yep, saw rb20 and staright to r32.

Add these to the to do list: 

Get a consult cable and check for error codes
Clean MAF
Clean IACV

@PranK is it time we do a Pinned generic fault to do check list thread? 


 

Kaleb Newbie

Kaleb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

There is no igniter module. Robbo saw RB20 and glossed over the fact that it's a Neo, that doesn't have one. The old R32 era RB20s did. Your igniters are built into your coils.

All the advice to check ignition components is valid, however hot misfires from failing ignition components usually tend to show up under higher load, rather than just off idle. My question is, is it actually a misfire that you're experiencing, or more of a stumble to near stall? Dirty idle control valves can cause nasty transition from driving to stopping and vice versa. As can dirty TB.

I’ll get a video for you guys so you can hear what I hear 

Neostead2000 Enthusiast

Neostead2000

Posted
Posted

Wish I could help with advice but I haven't yet assembled my 20Neo. One thing I've read on the forums here especially about the Neos is a bad ground on the coolant temp sensor. During cold startup the ECU always runs in open loop until a set of parameters have been met and usually ignores the CTS. After awhile it switches to closed loop and starts following your CTS reading. However, if the ground is bad, it will be sending funky signals (if at all) and thus cause the motor to run poorly.

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