Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

im from melb vic. 

ive got r32  there’s an electric short circuit issue idont have any knowledge about electric stuff if anyone can help me that would be awesome 

so the issue is when I turn the headlights on car burned the wire under the dash which is headlights wire thats wire came from under the dash nd connected to the driver side computer that wire is red colour with blue trace  so the wire is naked fully burned from starting to the end 

then i checked under the driver seat loom found same wire cooked and naked i followed thats wire and remove the centre console again i found same wire naked and burned 

everything was ok when i last time drove it  and she keep blowing the fuse  

ive checked lights were ok no issues 

rear lights checked ok

i cut that wire from near computer beside fusebox  and checked again 

then lights were working and no short circuit but only thing is not working breaklights  it only work while pressing peddle 

so i try  to connect That wire again and checked i found same thing happened wire start burning so ive checked what i know 

if anyone know wuts wrong or anyone lives in melb near west

If someone Have  knowledge about this please let me  will be really appreciated 

thankyou

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484499-r32-skyline-short-circuit/
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You need to trailer it to an auto-electrician before it burns to the ground.

solid advice, because that is a very real possibility at this stage.

the underlying problem is probably the headlight switch, the whole headlight power goes through it and as it gets old it can have increased resistance. You need to get another switch, I recommend brand new from nissan

For now you have to leave the fuse out and not drive at night. The headlight power wiring (blue/red) goes all over the place because it controls a lot of functions as well as the headlights like dash lights, cigarette lighter lights, tail lights etc etc etc. Somewhere a bare part of that wire is contacting the chassis and shorting so you need to find and fix that, or more likely if you are not confident with electrics replace the whole dash loom and anything else that is damaged (maybe front loom as well)

Yeah  @Duncan I’ve ordered new switch and I’ll replace  soon   And damaged wires too  im looking for an auto electrician in mean time iam stripping parts to check that other wires are okay !

and thanks for your replies @Duncan

@GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...