Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I recently purchased a V35 with a few electrical issues:

1. The indicator lights in the cluster sometimes dont work - I found that tapping on the top of the cluster when they're not working usually gets them to turn on. clearly an intermittent connection somewhere.

2. The up and down shift "buttons" dont do anything. (by buttons I mean pushing the gearstick over to the left then briefly forward or backward).

3. The fuel gauge is stuck at full. could be the sender.

4. The boot light doesn't work with a new bulb. Where is the switch BTW?

If anyone has any experience with the above I'd love to hear what you found. However what I'd really like is a wiring diagram. Can anyone direct me to where one might be found?

David

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484571-v35-electrical-gremlins/
Share on other sites

I used to have a V35. In regards to item 3. Fuel gauge issues are very common, and for me, it worked, it failed, I had the sender cleaned,  it worked, it failed again, I gave up. most people I have read about have the issue where it never show's as being totally filled up or always sits in the red when there are lots of K's left of fuel. But maybe the dirty sender has yours stuck in the up position at the sender. Long story short, fuel gauge issues are common and almost expected. 

The next electrical issue you should expect are the electrical window winders failing. For this one, I cleaned my old ones out & lubricated appropriately using electrically conductive grease, and they worked perfectly & reliably from that point on.

2 hours ago, Spoddy said:

1. The indicator lights in the cluster sometimes dont work - I found that tapping on the top of the cluster when they're not working usually gets them to turn on. clearly an intermittent connection somewhere.

Take the cluster out and look at the globes where they are bayoneted into the instrument panel. Could be loose/dirty or the globes could have broken filaments that sometimes touch and provide a circuit and sometimes just hang with an airgap.

You can get the G35 FSM here, it is generally close enough for most things -

https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals

What year?  the cluster changed from incandescent bulbs to LEDs in 2005. but even then, you can still have bad connections that cause issues, I had a dry joint on a surface mount transistor on my 2005 that caused the odo backlights to go out occasionally.

Fuel gauge issues seem to be common too, mine sometimes reads high, then returns to normal for a while, then reads high again, I have never worked it out, I've removed, cleaned and tested both senders, check for bad connections, yet it still occurs

Sorry I don't have any solid solutions, but hopefully the FSM is useful.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

Last night I took out the back seat and disconnected the electrical harnesses on both sides - didn't make any difference to the fuel gauge, it went straight to full when I turned on the ignition. Unless it averages the value over time (hence takes a while to drop) this would seem to rule out the sender.

Will remove the cluster on the weekend.

 

Once you unplug either of the 2 connectors on the fuel tank, the gauge should fall to zero.  Since yours does not, you either have a short in your wiring harness somewhere between the tank connectors and the cluster.  or the cluster itself is faulty.

There is a test procedure in the FSM you can run on the cluster which should cause the fuel gauge to show half, regardless of what the signal from the sender is, this should help isolated the fault to the cluster or the wiring.

  • Like 1
14 hours ago, sonicii said:

There is a test procedure in the FSM you can run on the cluster which should cause the fuel gauge to show half, regardless of what the signal from the sender is, this should help isolated the fault to the cluster or the wiring.

good to know, I'll look it up, thanks.

15 hours ago, sonicii said:

There is a test procedure in the FSM you can run on the cluster which should cause the fuel gauge to show half, regardless of what the signal from the sender is, this should help isolated the fault to the cluster or the wiring.

I tried running the test - the fuel gauge meter comes up to about half way, points to a wiring issue.

  • Like 1

For the benefit of people searching for solutions in the future, I found the following:

1. The problem with the indicator mimic lights in the cluster was caused by a dry joint on the cluster PCB. I traced the indicator LEDs to a common SMD resistor - the soldering looked OK but when I thought I'd resolder it anyway, since I'd come so far. As I pushed on one end with the soldering iron tip to apply heat, the part moved - it was not soldered well on the other end.  Having found one fault I went over the rest of the large resistors on the PCB and found quite a few like this.

2. The up and down shift "buttons" started working after the fault codes were cleared - the check engine light was on. I'd say the functionality is inhibited whenever the check engine light is on as a means to give you incentive to get the car fixed. The check engine light problem is I think due to a faulty brake vac sensor. 

FYI

I have yet to figure out the fuel gauge or boot light issues.

 

David

 

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...