Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello so on my 3rd attempt with rear main seal install, oem looked flush when I took it out. 1st try it went it uneven and too far, 2nd try with another new seal it went in mostly flush but one side ended up crooked and couldn't even it out well enough. Well THE 3RD TRY AT THIS, seal looks and feels pretty even all the way around on inner and outer ring, cant even slide a piece of paper under it anywhere, BUT it isn't flush with the seal cover. It goes in ever so slightly, , maybe a few mm. Otherwise its even all around on its depth.

 

Now my question here is, would the rear main seal being slightly in cause any leaking? as long as its even and the surface was cleaned? It wasnt leaking before but with the transmission off I decided to do it since a 30yr old seal MUST be showing some age at this point, but when it came out it was just as soft and pliable as new one to my surprise so it wasnt needed but needs one installed now regardless.

 

I am losing my mind trying to get this stupid seal on and I think im good to go with it finally but just curious of others opinions more knowledgeable as ive read conflicting things saying IT MUST BE FLUSH WITH THE COVER OR ITLL LEAK, and also people saying in a bit is fine as long as its even and theres no gaps.

 

Thanks for any advice/help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484671-rear-main-seal-on-rb20det/
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...