Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, 

I am working on a 1993 R32 GTR for a friend of mine and have to install a Greddy oil filter relocation kit and a Greddy Oil Cooler. The oil filter relocation kit comes with two plates (one that goes where the original oil filter went on the block and one where the oil filter will eventually sit [somewhere near the dirver's side strut mount]). The oil cooler comes with a thermostatic sandwich plate which also seems to go where the original oil filter position was. However, it also mounts up to the plate from the filter relocation kit. 

Do I just hook up both kits as normal and simply screw in the thermostatic plate on the oil filter relocation plate and then the oil filter on top of that? Or do I put the thermostatic sandwich plate on the block (and attach the oil relocation plate on top)

I have included a picture of the 3 plates in question. The plate on the left is the plate where the oil filter will go after being relocated, the middle on is the thermostatic plate that came with the oil cooler, and the plate on the right is the plate that screws into the block where the original oil filter location is. The second picture is just me test installing it to show my idea. 

I was wondering how I should route this and needed input from anyone who has done this. I.e. How to arrange the plates and which tubes to go to which ports. 

P.S. I didnt order these parts or plan this out I'm just the one installing them. 

Thanks in advance!

 

20230519_232454.jpg

20230520_123036.jpg

You need to make sure the oil is filtered, whether or not the thermostat is opened. Can't really tell how it works from those pics and I assume there were no instructions provided....

Did the kit come with lines, or are you making them. The old school location of upside down on the strut tower is a crap idea. Much better to mount the filter upside down on the chassis rail in front of the front diff

Yes I'm sure its genuine. I believe the mistake my friend made was ordering a relocation kit separate from the oil cooler kit rather than getting the combined kit. I saw on Greddy's website these are 2 separate kits.

The kits came with lines. 2 lines on the relocation and 2 kits on the oil cooler. 

Looking at this now I believe that the oil will be filtered whether or not the thermostat is open. 

The first picture shows how the plate operates when cold. Oil comes up from the bottom and goes into the filter- and exits the filter back to the block. (when cold it comes through where the spring is in the hole).

The second picture shows how it will work when it is hot. The thermostat opens and the oil flows out of the thermostat plate to the cooler- it then comes back to the filter by the space that is now opened because the thermostat is open (and returns to the block). [Where the brass piece is now- as its at room temp its closed]. 

The third picture is the bottom of the thermostatic plate. 

In other words, when the thermostat opens the part of the plate that would lead directly to the filter is closed but there is enough space left open for the oil to go directly to the cooler. Additionally the space that is now open because the thermostat is open allows oil to flow back from the cooler into the filter (through the left port). 

The truth is they should have gotten the combined kit but probably did not realize they can achieve the relocation and oil cooler with one kit rather than 2.

What do you think?

P.S. The oil filter will go near the strut but it won't be upside down- it will be vertical. 

 

20230520_183037.jpg

20230520_183054.jpg

20230520_183101.jpg

Edited by Tom24GR
Adding the P.S.
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...