2009 BMW 335i E92 Coupe with 7 speed DCT trans
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You have your numbers back to front. 350mm from wheel centre to guard lip would be scrapinly low and the suspension arms would be at spastic angles and it would have the road manners of a meth affected giraffe. You can down to ~450mm (from larger stock starting values about 50ish mm higher than that) before you start to create to many problems. -
I think last I checked it was 35cm from fender to wheel center. I heard u can go up to 45-48cm before handling his impacted. But I need to check again. I know I was about 1.2 cm off being close to max recommended. -
By Murray_Calavera · Posted
You'd need to weld on an external gate to achieve that number though. I can't remember seeing anyone make 500hp at the wheels with the stock manifold / internally gated turbo. -
Suspension Component Question Looking for some feedback based on people's experiences! I know this has been loosely covered in other threads but I can't find any direct answers/experience. I'm up for some bush/rod replacements and was interested in a hybrid approach between hardened rubber and pillowball kit. Why not choose one or the other? Well, this is for my daily driver, which I track once or twice a year. I like a stiff car and a sporty feel but I don't want to compromise the chassis too much with 100% pillowball gadgetry. I know from experience and a tonne of reading that not all components affect ride quality in the same way - eg. in my case, coilover top mounts should be hardened rubber as pillowball transfers way too many undesirable qualities and doesn't have much more upside than a good hardened rubber. But, pillowball tension rods translate to much better turn-in/steering response and make the car significantly sharper, without negatively impacting ride quality in a significant way. I'm not TOO bothered by NVH (to a degree). So, with context out of the way, does anyone have any experience with a hybrid approach as mentioned above? I'm going to replace all components over time so am seeking guidance on: - front tension rods - upper camber arms - rear lower control arm - rear traction rod - rear upper camber arm - rear toe adjuster rod Secondly, is there any reason why this is a bad idea? Or any other info/wisdom that I might not be considering. Cheers 🫶 -
By Chris_Guthrie · Posted
That's good to hear I'll stick with the stock I hear they are good for 500hp and I'm only shooting for 350-400 once I can get this thing sorted and get to actually building it.
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