Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi from ohio usa haha . New to the forum search it often for stuff but need to create a profile to ask ?'s . So it's probably been covered but rwd stageas why did they not come with a rear sway bar and what can I use 🤔 I take it a s14 one will do. I've researched and found the 240sx s14 chassis suspension and steering are compatible. So will that work im building it to drift but currently love to cruise it when it's not being worked on haha. But I feel more control in the rear is needed. Definitely with the lil I've done to the suspension so far it's loose goosey in the rear. Any help would be appreciated thanks and cheers 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485434-rwd-stagea-sway-bar/
Share on other sites

I'm a little surprised there is no rear bar on your car, any sign that it was there but removed (mounting holes on the control arms and subframe?)

While there are differing opinions on sway bars vs spring rates, I am much happier with the stock boatlike handling being improved with relatively light aftermarket springs and reasonably heavy sway bars at each end.

It kind of depends what your expectations are from the handling, but it is likely just adding a sway bar won't transform a big wagon into a track weapon

 

Yeah I agree and I haven't jumped back under to look for signs that one was there but from the previous hours under it it didn't look like it had one on im the first owner in the US. And as for adding it for a performance mod for my track suspension, that's not my goal per say. at the moment I'm just wanting to get the rear under control a lil more until I get time to test and tune when all the suspension components finally arrive. It's a slow build for me just a project to enjoy and she runs strong rn so in-between down time for mods I keep it street ready if the weathers decent I cruise it to work lol. But my commute is highway and we'll let's just say the roads aren't smooth. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...