Weird compression after rebuild

[EndZee]

Hello, after engine rebuild(new cylinder liners and piston rings, arp headstuds, metal cometic tripple layer gasket, all new main/rod bearings) and roughly 100km made I did measure compression and it’s (1-6) - 80, 60, 90, 120, 110, 135. It’s rb25det series 1 - hydraulic lifters. Measured on cold engine. Didn’t check on hot due to overall car problems such as broken 3rd gear, idle issues, misfire etc. I did smoke test only on 2nd and 5th cylinder bcs soldering iron used with this method broke itself. So after setting cams to side - side 90 left/right angle I can see smoke coming off from intake manifold and turbo exhaust flange. 5th didn’t notice any smoke. Shop did head, valve etc job but I assemble it by myself. So I thinking about lifters. I don’t remember if they were soft or not it was long time ago. In my opinion I didn’t bleed them and they can be opened more than they should be. Can it be more likely possible? Or timing can be off by 1 teeth and can cause such weird compression? But if timing would be out wouldn’t it be like such big difference across all cylinders? Please help I’m so sad it happened. 

[EndZee]

I can also smell fuel in oil if that helps. 

[GTSBoy]

More likely you didn't bed the rings in correctly and have glazed the bores. Running with misfires on a fresh build is somewhat of a no-no.

Surely no-one "smoke tests" the combustion chamber? That's what a leakdown test is for. Smoke testing is, um, a bit of a wank at best, and only really useful for external pipework.

 

[dbm7]

Yeah. air pressure leakdown test is where I would be headed next here, using one's ears to determine whether it's the valves or bores/rings leaking...

[EndZee]

But if I smoke test 5th cylinder it’s all ok, no leaks 

when I try with 2nd it’s leaking exhaust and intake, it doesn’t come from oil dip stick. 
 

so maybe when car was running poorly, rich or sth. Spark plugs were black and covered in charcoal or sth lookalike. could potential contamination make valves not seal properly?

is there also a possibility that rb’s don’t have equal performing cooling passages  meaning back of the engine will be hotter than front. Can this cause improper wear if engine was running under load for short time? Or carbon build up could just burnt from 4-6 and is still on 1-3?

 

I out of my head like really. Timing is as manual crank-exhaust 47, exhaust-intake 38

at this point I thinking about give it a try and make another 500-1000km and check if anything change, if not I will most likely disassemble engine head /or whole engine and send it back to rebuild. It’s killing me