Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my second swaybar mount broke tonite (front passenger side), or it could've been slowly falling off over the past couple of days no im really unsure. my kit has been on the car for atleast a year and half now with several trackdays under my belt and its a daily driven car which frequents difficult terrain (read: speed bumps and what not).

just wondering if anyone else has experienced the same issue?

i ran aftermarket stiffer swaybars on my old wrx and never came across this before, however, i have heard of it being a common occurence....in any case, its an easy fix when you have a MIG welder around...

rs73, i'm using whiteline swaybars but i dont think these are to blame...ive ran whiteline swaybars on my old wrx and this car for about a year and a half and have never had a problem. i think its more nissan's failure to make strong swaybar brackets :)

roy, im using stock swaybar mounts or its more a bracket actually.

im getting it all fixed tomorrow so i'll try and get my mechanic to take some pics of the damage and the end result...

silver-arrowz, my mechanic has seen the same problem on 200sx's too....

So it's not the swaybar that broke, but the std mount?

Could this be attributed to using stiffer swaybar has put greater load on the mount when cornering?

PS: I used whiteline too, and my car's 11yo so this kinda worry me a bit.

I've ran sways on mine and no probs at all. Have you tighten the bolts too tight? A mate of mine did that on his nissan pulsar and the link kept snapping. The bushes need a little bit of free play.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...