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not that hard at all, most wreckers have the headlights, wiring, radiator support and bumper support available for under $500. I'm gonna use fibreglass guards, bumper and possibly hood (with a CF layer on top to make it look similar).

noting really... dunno why everyone thinks its the be all to end all drift car...

realistically speaking if you use a non forced induction engine you can get up to 130kw at the fly. The AE86 was the last corolla to come out with RWD, might be the charm behind it.

In its heyday, the 86 won NA comps around the world (in the US, Malaysia, Europe and Japan) as a circuit car. (The ones the S2000 dominates these days)

These days, kids in japan with not much money to spend buy em by the truckload, modify em with later model 4AGE engines and then take them drifting.

hmm thanks for the info Shan.. you see the ones in Autosalon magazine issue 26 . 4 nice ones including a Takumi replica with the fujiwara tofu shop writing on the side :D

hey got any idea where i could source a levin front grill .. you know the see through one!!

from me? lol i have one on the levin which I won't need once I do my front end conversion to a trueno. But you'll have to wait till the day that happens.

hm, getting along quick with our project, welded in the new handbrake positiona nd relocated the gearbox hole in the tunnel, al rust is cut out and starting to weld in the new sections/panels etc.. 2 more weeks and will be ready for the road . axcept for the respray that would need to be done!

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    • To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 😁 Definitely the car
    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It’ll be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
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