Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All,

Managed to get some time at the weekend to install my evc IV, i've had it sat around for ages, was on my mr2 turbo, then the wifes pulsar gti-r - now both cars have gone, it i reclaimed it for the skyline ... anyway, having installed it both on the mr2 and the pulsar, thought it would be a fairly straight forward job on the line as well ....

well, i STRUGGLE to find a pre-intercooler port to T off for the valve controller, it requires a pre intercooler, post intercooler (throttle body) and actuator plumbing ..

my question is this - I cant be the only person to have installed one of these - where do you get the pre intercooler connection from ????

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49463-hks-evc-iv-installation/
Share on other sites

I know WHAT is needed, its WHERE

yes there are dozens of post intercooler outlets, and thats fine, its the PRE intercooler ... could not SEE anywhere to T off from, unless there is something i couldn't see / feel ...

Where would your waste gate normally get pressure from? that is where you T in the pre intercooler.

Post Intercooler, anywhere on the head with pressure.. there are dozens.

Well obviously you have a stock turbo... and the stock turbo has to have a wastegate.. this wastegate has a pipe the gets pressure, normally off the side of the turbo compressor housing.

This is where you take the pressure for the boost controller. Then the out of the Boost controller goes to the wastegate.

and i say yet again, i know WHAT i need to find, its where to find it

the actuator has a pipe that goes to the actuator solonoid, the thing that controls 5 or 7 psi, this in turn has 2 pipes comming from it, both which seem to go to the post intercooler line ....

on the other cars i have fitted an evc to, the watstegate actuator has its line plumbed directly to the pressure side of the turbo housing ... THIS (as you correctly state) is what i am looking for, but there does not seem to be a connection on the pressure side on the turbo house on this turbo.

and yes, it is a standard turbo.

/me sighs

i'll be back under the bonnet at the weekend to try and look for it.

Well obviously you have a stock turbo... and the stock turbo has to have a wastegate.. this wastegate has a pipe the gets pressure, normally off the side of the turbo compressor housing.

This is where you take the pressure for the boost controller. Then the out of the Boost controller goes to the wastegate.

Ah I see, i forget about the solenoid.

I have ran all my EVC boost controllers with pressure post intercooler from the pleenum. This is on a GTR.

On GTS-Ts etc I had always ran them pre intercooler It dosn't really seem to make any difference.

I would just take the pipe that supplies pressure to the solenoid (the other one will be a bleed) even if it is post intercooler.

But if you are really worried about long pipe length and the EVC not getting the signal fast enough.. just tap into your intercooler pipe. Drill a hole.

SOLENOID

------------

|......Port 1.|---> intercooler pipe where the standard wg actuator plumbs (before throttle body)

|......Port 2.|---> to the wastegate

|......Port 3.|---> to T-piece in the fuel pressure reg line (manifold - FPR)

-------------

-rb25

Thanks for all the post but OMG !!! are people NOT reading my posts !!!

I KNOW HOW TO PLUMB IN THE EVC

i am asking WHERE a PRE intercooler outlet is, NOT what it goes to on the EVC

sorry for the outburst

GTR-Ben -

the reason to get that feed pre intercooler is so that the evc is not overworking the turbo, to get, lets say 10 psi, at the plenum the turbo has to work harder than if you measure to get 10 psi at the tip of the turbo housing, this is because the turbo has to work to pressurise the whole of the intake system before you start measuring at the plenum.

The EVC IV has the inputs to read pre and post intercooler, as rb25 points out, this is port number 3 it then calculates the offset between the 2 and delivers the output required ....

anyway,

didn't get a chance to look for it at the weekend, and don't like the idea of looking for it after work, when the turbo is nice and hot, and its a bit dark ... guess it'll have to wait until this weekend when the wife has friends over ! :D

and I already have the EVC IV manual pdf'd in case anyone wants it ...

thanks anyway

um

thats not right

have been under the bonnet this afternoon (working from home is great !)

anyway, the solonoid has TWO pipes, one that plumbs back to the inlet (post afm, pre turbo) and one that goes to the actuator. There is DEFFINATLY not an outlet pre intercooler ...

its looking like i either stick with a post intercooler feed, or drill and tap a hole :cheers:

The stock solenoid has has 3 lines.  1 goes to wastegate, 1 is a bleed return line, which plumbs into the AFM to turbo inlet pipe - this is for emissions purposes.  The last one, is the pressure line from the turbo oulet.

So, it is just a process of elimination.

be screwed if I could tell !!!

there is DEFFO 2 lines comming from solonoid, DEFFO one goes to actuator, and one goes back to pre turbo inlet ...

VERY strange ..

am taking line from post intercooler currently, and its working, although i am getting a few spikes, ebc is set to .7 of a bar, and comming off boost under hard driving will spike to .8, and running uphill slightly under hard boost will be running at .75

anyway

if anyone wants to have a look, and is in the shire, then please feel free to pop over and see ..

well if it has TWO lines, where does the pressure come from to open the wastegate??????

Well as I said, every GTR I have ever seen or installed a EVC on has got pressure post intercooler.. should be ok for your car too.

Yes I know it's best to get the reading pre intercooler so it's getting the actual pressure the turbo is creating.. but unless you have a huge pressure drop at your intercooler.. it's really not going to matter.

It has never caused me any problems.. a .05bar spike is ok

There must be a line that feeds pressure to the wastegate solenoid or you would be free boosting..?

The line to the wastegate isnt via a T peice is it?

possibly was, cant remember now

but now you mention it, it could well have been ....

be interested for someone to check out their standard setup and see what goes where

am just using the post that is post intercooler and making do with that ....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...