Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok here it is, u may remember me posting up about an AFM issue, that turned out to be a Turbo issue, now i have been told to look further into it.

Hereis the problem

The car was running really rich, idle at 300rpm and run like a dog, i took the AFM out and cleaned it (found oil all over it)with some contact cleaner, put it back in and it worked fine for about 2 days. I was told it may be a blown poil seal in the turbo.

Ok ive tried, putting the stock ECU back in fromt he Apexi PFC didnt fix it.

Now i have a stock turbo at my mates house that i can use and i was going to replace it on the weekend, but my mate has told me to slow down a bit and look outside the square.

i also notice a minor vacum leak inside the engine bay.

have you come across this before?

How can i fix it?

Its reall Urgent as it is my everyday car.

If you have a quick fix either post it here or call me on the number below

thx

Craig

0410 635 901

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49656-weird-problem-need-help-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

Considering the first clean fixed it, maybe its just dirty again ;)

The oil is coming from the foam filter your are probably using that someone got carried away with oiling recently? :Oops:

I usually use wd40 and metho then set the centre resistor on fire with a gas lighter for a few seconds to clean everything off and dry it out.

Dont forget the ECU usually cooks it up when you switch off to try to do the same thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh ok that makes so much sense. Thanks for clearing it up!
    • And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!
    • Yeah - I found the same information too.. 30% open is like 85% of flow etc. So it's probably going to be minor if not completely imperceptible. I also have a larger pod filter here, will swap that on and see if there's any difference. The hardest part is finding a place to uh, test this. It's quite noticable just how much having ducting to the otherwise completely open pod cools the intake temps down. It's better boxed, or shielded but driving for 30 seconds really makes it plummet to near ambient temperatures. I recall in the past when I was a RB land and had a nice flowing airbox -  - Then I took the lid off and put a pod there, and gained 9 psi of boost and about 60kw from the restriction I didn't know I had - with the controller at same duty cycle. However finding people using over the radiator intakes having similar KPA drops at WOT on built setups makes me think there restriction could be the exhaust or potentially the headers. Either way though, there's no real estate to play with and nothing that can realistically be done about it. The original dyno plot without the airbox, and the larger pod had a better curve. It was later I added the ducting and airbox, and a smaller pod to make it fit in there...
    • That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.
    • Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service.   There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)
×
×
  • Create New...