Jump to content
SAU Community

When power steering pumps start leaking.

P1E

By P1E,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

P1E Mentor

P1E

Posted
Posted

I noticed my car was leaking power steering fluid the other day, and after looking around the engine bay I thought I found the source - a lose hose connection. I tightened it up and the car stopped leaking. I used a rag and cleaned off all the drips of power steering fluid I could find in the engine bay and under the car, topped up the fluid through the filter and thought I was in the clear.

I had a look underneath the car today though (while it was cold), and while the ground was dry, there was a bit of wetness on the under side of the power steering pump. Does it sound as though it needs replacing? Or is this normal? Or could it have been damp from the original hose leak?

If I do need a new power steering pump, how much am I up for?

luckydip Enthusiast

luckydip

Posted
Posted

If its the same as a R32 pump - i had same prob after taking out/putting back pump and canister.

Depends exactly where leak is, the pump has two high pressure lines on top and large dia low pressure feed/suction line on botton facing back towards inner guard.

Clean all areas well (high pressure/degreaser or both)....take car for run....use small mirror to locate leak.

If leaking out of HP banjo fittings - then the copper washers may need replacing (2 on each pipe). Other solutions if this doesnt work.

If leak on bottom LP hose - then hose maybe perished on the inside and they weep out around the clamp fitting - or the clamp may need replacing/tightening or both.

I had multipul leaks from all spots after install...took a while to sort them all out. Also found that the small LP hoses all leaked when disturbed. Probablly caused because hoses old and the twin wire clamps never seem to locate exactly back in same spot....hence leaks.. Suggest buy new hoses (or aftermarket hose) and GOOD QUAL worm clamps.

Best of Luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...