Jump to content
SAU Community

got my ecu rechipped


CEF11E
 Share

Recommended Posts

I wanted to tell you guys about my results

My car is 1988 cefiro

rb20det

stock turbo, stock intercooler, blitz BOV, 3" exhaust from dump back, electronic boost controller, walbro fuel pump, pod plus intake. running 1 bar

before the ecu was chipped by toshi it was putting out 170rwhp and pinging. it seemed to run OK but was not as quick as i thought it should be.

Toshi took all my mods into account and remalled ignition and fuel. He also removed the speed cut and boost cut.

we put the chip in the ecu and did another run. The car sounded a lot better exhaust note. The results were 215rwhp.

Thats a 45HP increase! and the car dosent ping anymore!.

the peak power is great but the biggest difference you notice is the huge increase in torque/power in the midrange.

The car now feels awsome to drive and is now quicker than my mate's wrx :throwup: haha!

to anyone who wants their car tuned and running at its best get toshi to mod your ecu for you its the cheapest performance upgrade you will make and your air/fuel ratio will be correct.

we could have got 20more rwhp out of it according to toshi if we pushed it upto 1.1bar but i didnt like the chances of the turbo livivng very long at that boost level.

dyno sheet coming...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

basically does the same thing Dr_Drift does and did to my R32... most decent tuners with an EPROM burner can do it... u just have to have the right maps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fuel economy is slightly better than before. becuase at default settings most skylines/cefiros run rich.

as for tuning in real time no.

he comes with you and organises a dyno run. he looks at the A/F ratios and other stuff and burns an eprom on site on does another run untill the chip is correct for the car.

so bacically the chip is custom made for your car and tuned properly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it cost me $250.

that included toshi coming to the dyno place and burning a chip on site and then doing another dyno run to make sure it was perfect.

he even gave me a copy of my stock chip so i can run it in factory tune if i like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A mate of mine here in WA does realtime tuning to Nissan factory ECUs using an emulator and also reads off the consult port etc. Works extremely well. I shall be getting my ECU done soon too. Also realtime means you can change maps instantly, not burn a map, run the car, remod the map on the PC and reburn it.

JK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this seems very worthwhile, did it cost much to use the dyno twice for the testing process?

I haven't done this before so I am interested in the total outlay of funds for the whole project...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Talk to toshi. he will book the dyno for you and you can meet him there. I used the dyno for a total of 17 runs and it cost me $80 The place to get the dyno work done is Procar. its on the northen beaches in sydney.

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Tryna decide if I should get a skirt coating on my cp 2618 forged pistons that im about to order. Anyone have first hand experience with a forged RB with coated or non coated piston skirts? Is it worth it and does it make much difference? And for people who went with 2618 pistons with no skirt coating how long has your engine lasted? The engine is an rb25/30 and main concern is  that It will be a daily car and will probably see a fair bit of short distance driving, have been told by my machine shop and my tuner that generally a forged engine lasts around 40,000kms before needing a rebuild. Would a skirt coating make much of a difference? cheers 
    • From now on read it as minus 5 and minus 7 instead of dash, and you're correct...
    • Opened up the cluster to inspect the gauge itself for signs of damage and it looks good. Got curious since that needle doesn't go back to a "neutral" position by itself (it stays in the same position when ignition is off. so I manually moved it to 1/2. Connected it back, turned on the ignition and the needle started moving up! Not sure what's up with that but before that the needle was way down below empty like fully south west. There's always a chance that the needle moved slightly the first time I tried and I didn't notice because of how slowly it moves and how far it was from the markings. I don't know if the current needle position is accurate so I'll fill it up and see where that brings it. I guess I'll try to adjust it manually if it doesn't get to F. Looks like the needle position is relative and not absolute? Thanks all for your help and patience!
    • You're confusing two different responders and more than one issue. The stock Neo ECU boost sensor is used by the ECU for protection purposes. It is essentially only an overboost sensor. It is not used for determining engine load for fuelling or ignition purposes. That task falls solely to the AFM. Any aftermarket ECU that either has an onboard MAP sensor or a plug in one, will use the MAP sensor as the primary load sensor. Or I should perhaps say "can", rather than "will", because some of them have the option of using other primary load sensors. That MAP sensor is not for the same function as the stock Neo boost sensor. The reason I recommended against a plug and play ECU is that they are intended to run a particular engine and usually in the car that the particular engine came in. So, if you have a transplanted engine in a different car, with some parts of the original missing (such as the boost sensor, for example) and therefore likely non-standardness of the loom and its insertion into the car's loom, then it is very likely that you will run into the same problems with needing to fix up wiring to make it work that you would with the stock ECU. And, if doing so for the stock ECU is enough of an obstacle that you start considering a standalone plugin as a solution, it should become clear that the plugin is quite possibly not the solution you'd hope it to be. It would just lead to more of the same type of problem solving work to get it going. In the above paragraph and in my earlier post, the lack of the boost sensor is not critical. It was just used as an example of something that we knew you did not have right, such that the stock ECU would not work. I took that as an indicator of a reasonable probability that there were other related problems hiding there.
    • I can think of two places in my city of <1.5million population that specialise in automotive instrument repairs.Unless you're out in the wilds of Quebec, you have 3 major Canadian and 3 major US cities within the same distance as the single nearest city to mine. Surely there is somewhere you could send it.
×
×
  • Create New...