Jump to content
SAU Community

Tomei two way mechanical lsd -any good?

Bl4cK32
 Share

Recommended Posts

drifto Collaborator

drifto

Posted
Posted

No!

The 1.5 and 2 ways have a series of clutch packs that can allow the diff to be open ie when your turning tight with the clutch in each wheel can turn independently.

When load is put through the unit it forces the locking mechanism on. The amount of tension you set the diff up with via shims gives you more or less force required to lock it.

With a mini spool you remove the planetary gears of a stock diff and connect the two drive shafts through the spool which effectively locks both drive shafts to the crown wheel.

A full spool is a 1 piece crown wheel and spool which works exactly the same as the mini but is far stronger.

When you weld the diff you simply weld the planatary gears up so they can not rotate. It is very dodgy but in a shit box works fine.

Most serious track cars run full spools.

I've got a 2 way Kaaz and it is annoying around town when it clunks and bangs as it locks on and off.

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

Can you adjust the amount of force needed to lock the diff's? I have heard a few people mention changing the pre-load, but I have no idea myself and I am looking at upgrading my diff

Chris

drifto Collaborator

drifto

Posted
Posted

a believe a 1 way diff locks only in forward load

1.5 locks fully in forward and not a tight in reverse or negative load ie. down shifting

2 way locks under the same load in either direction.

What makes this happen is the angle of the ramps where the locking mechanism id held in by the preload.

More load makes it harder to come up the ramp and allow one wheel to turn more or less then the other when your making a turn. Every time you get a bang or a clunck it's when the centre has turned 90 degrees and moved around to the next slot.

A more shallow ramp allows this to happen smoother.

It would be possible to have a 2 way set with ligth preload and it would be very smooth.

Or a 1.5 very tight that would be really cluncky with forward loads but not as bad in with reverse loads.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...