Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The climate control in my 34 seems to not work correctly.

When in auto mode and set to any temperature the fan automatically turns to maximum and starts blasting hot air no matter what temperature i set the display too.

In manual mode, it blows cold air when set to 18 degrees and blows hot air when set to any other temperature.

It seems like the temperature sensor isn't working so the climate control can't figure out what temperature it is inside the car?

Or is this just normal behaviour and I have to live with it? Would much prefer to be able to set a temp and get it to hold as I constantly have to switch up and down from 18 to get the right temp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49901-r34-climate-control/
Share on other sites

ahh... not normal... I have noticed that mine doesn't heat at all if it's set to 24 or less even if the temp inside is obviously freezing.

Also, in the Nissan literature they say it can display outside temp. but I can't work that one out.

Don't think it would do anything either but I'm still gonna give it a shot.

As for the sensor not being plugged in, a problem along those lines is what I suspected but where exactly is the sensor? Couldn't quite decipher the location.

Climate Control Diagnostics R32 and R33

 

The climate control has a diagnostic mode.  

 

Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing the OFF button for five seconds within ten seconds of turning the ignition on.

Sensor check  

Sensor check is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen.  

 

If normal, a "20" is displayed.

 

If abnormal the failed sensor number is displayed. The sensor numbers are as follows:

 

20 - all is normal

21 - outside air sensor

22 - Inside air sensor

23 - Water temperature sensor

24 - Intake temperature sensor

25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

26 - PBR

27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

 

This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty

have u tried this diagnostics method on the 34?

ok i just tried it.

and I got into the diagnostic mode.

here is what I found.

when you turn the temp knob all the way to the coldest, it seems to be in "light + LCD test mode" as all the lights on the aircon unit light up and all the icons on the LCD are visible too.

next if you turn the temp up slowly, I think 2 or 3 degrees up, you will get in to what I think is the sensor test as I received a 20 meaning no problems, you might receive a different number here NJR 34GTT since your aircon is playing up.

the next few modes I have no idea what they are, they gave me a 5 and a 41 from memory.

Yeah I tried the diagnostic mode and got what I expected a 22 and a 25. The 25 being from the fact the car is in the garage. I suspect they didn't reconnect the internal sensor properly when my profecb handset was disconnected.

Now the task of pulling apart my dash just to get to that sensor and the back of the climate control seems a little daunting.

Happy to know that I've determined that it is the internal temperature sensor though.

Thanks guys.

Oh and I noticed that weird grate symbol too.

i got a 25 too!! but my climate control is running fine,,, heats and cools when its supposed to,,

i haven't tried looking for the sunload sensor,, so where exactly is it on top of the dash?

i think that grate a/b symbol if for the internal air filter,,, will light up if its gets blocked i guess,, the r34's came with an air con air filter. there is a thread on sau about how to go about removing/cleaning the air -filter,,

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ight=r34+filter

afro

ok...34 gtr hot/cold control knob pushs in to display ambient temp....to takeout the sun sensor....remove the whole grille that holds it there is no bolts to hold the grille in...it just clips in....pry it out with a screwdriver

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...