Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noob here.

My car is weak to the point where i cant seem to accelerate uphill, and is making an almost unbearable sound that i think is coming from 'somewhere at the passenger side between the exhaust and the engine.

I dont know whats wrong, and havent had it checked yet (apart from by my uncle) coz im waiting till uni holidays to check it when i have time. My uncle said it might be the exhaust if the car has extractors (this i dont know). Something about the emission not being able to get out and getting sucked back into the engine. I have no idea myself. But does anyone know about this who can provide some help?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50558-power-loss-problem-wid-exhaust/
Share on other sites

my power loss felt similar to what you describe. took off cat and it was in perfect condition (make sure you take it for a fang to hear the exhaust coming straight off the manifold).

then i cleaned the pod filter and had 90% of my power back. try that.

ok turns out. when my uncle put the plugs back in, 1 of them got cracked so theres the culprit to the misfire. currently have NGK BCPR6ES plugs gapped to 1.1 and working. yeah i decided to clean out the air filter with (dont laugh) a tooth brush :cheers:

id say from my noobie analytical brain, i gained about 70% of the power back. exhaust is still loud as a mofo, seems loose and havent been able to get it checked yet so yeah. till then.

yep. looking for a replacement right now.

i wanted to do that but I didnt use an air compressor coz i didnt have one and couldnt get one at the time. i decided i'd clean it when i got up on sunday (at 12:30pm :headspin: ) so no chance at goin to autobarn to get the air compressor.

Anyway. can you recommend an air filter. im after one soon. id prefer to have one i wouldnt have to maintain but anything will do really, coz it seems like anything would give me better performance

Ta!

OK extractors were checked ( i thought they wree called front pipes BLEH) had a 5c sized hole in it. That was the cause of the extremely loud noise, and power loss and me having to ease up on the gas in order to change gears. didnt end up getting them replaced even though i know i should (theyre rusted really bad).

What my uncle decided to do was weld some steel around the thing and seal it up. Works a whole lot better. From all the F-words and cursing i heard from my uncle it was a tedious process (probably because we only had 1 jack). Over heated-Broken bolts replaced etc etc.

Air Filter was cleaned wid a air compressor gun, and some degeaser.

100% power is back. and i am a happy man again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...