Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am far to bored and upset with my car for sensible discussion so I'll put htis idea foward instead...

There has been many a discussion on Trust turbos being a glorified (or in some cases not even glorified) truck turbos.

So, can you take 1 x Canter turbo and add 1 x RB26DETT and make decent power?

That is the question I put to you all...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50607-crazy-idea-number-28394792/
Share on other sites

1 x Canter turbo + 1 x RB26DETT = jus about what Ben from racepace has on his GTR that currectly holds the marque car record or somthing for Phillip island

1 x Canter turbo + 1 x RB26DETT = jus about what Ben from racepace has on his GTR that currectly holds the marque car record or somthing for Phillip island

Are you serious? How big are these small truck turbos???

What's an old school TO4E like?

This discussion is far from stupid....I seriously wanted something like a TO4E for my car...a guy that put one on his RB25DE had almost none of the low rpm pinging that I suffered...and had fairly decent spooling on the 10:1 compression.

I say put the canter turbo on, you of all people shouldn't be scared of strying something out...oh GT+T master :cheers:

This discussion is far from stupid....I seriously wanted something like a TO4E for my car...a guy that put one on his RB25DE had almost none of the low rpm pinging that I suffered...and had fairly decent spooling on the 10:1 compression.

I say put the canter turbo on, you of all people shouldn't be scared of strying something out...oh GT+T master :cheers:

I don't actually have a Canter turbo, just that finding a cheap (read: free) small diesel truck turbo is easy as pie. Manifold and wastegate would be the expensive bit...

Can the factory log be modded to take another flange? Can't see why not...anyone tried?

Certainly can, I've seen some with a normal flange, a spacer (used to attach the gate) and then the different flange.

No good for a GTR though as we have two separate manifolds and the flanges face different ways to the 20/25 manifolds.

Hi Guys, be carefull, diesel turbos are not designed for the much higher exhaust gas temperature of a petrol engine. I have seen one die in under 5 minutes, the seals melted and it filled the dyno room with smoke (not from the tyres). :dump:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...