Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

installed an e-01 last night...

The settings were taken off a the previous owners 34 gt-t

i drove it all last night and this morning and boost was holding at 0.88 bar to 0.96 max which is 13PSI

I take it for a spin tonight for a cruise...and i do the proper warm up etc....and drop her into 2nd put the foot down...everythings fine till 5000rpm not paying attention at psi reading and POP POP POP car starts jerking and i have to pull over....

Ever since then theirs no control on the boost...by 4000rpm im at 12 psi at 7000rpm (ive only gone their twice...too scared now) its reached around 20PSI

Ive tried turning the boost controller off...no luck...tried altering settings no luck...

I obvoulsy have to take it to a workshop and get it properly tuned....but would have tonights spiking to 23 about 4 or 5 times ****ed my car in anyway?

Ive got FMIC and GCG highflow...

Wat could the possible problems be? Settings from previous owner (34gt-t) not right for my car?

BUt it was working all last night and this morning holding at 0.88 bar...now after 4000rpm it just hits 22 psi :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51422-massive-boost-spiking-eo1-help/
Share on other sites

As Meggala said, go back over everything that you did and check all the air and electrical connections. If you can't find anything wrong, then put it back exactly the way it was before you installed the e-01.

So its definately not a setting problem?

I even turned the boost controller "OFF" and it still spiked to 20 every single time

Does the spiking to 20 wreck my car in anyway?

Im going outside to check the hoses now...cheers

Checked all the hoses and everything...no holes nothing...

I didnt installl the e-01...so im not sure what im looking at...

I see 2 hoses connected to the greddy valve...one going to the intercooler...one going to a gold round thing...both those hoses are in tact..

IN between those 2 hoses...i found a smaller hose...which aint connected to anything...i tried to follow where the start of it is...but lost it under the fmic piping...

I then followed the electrical wiring...its all in tact aswell :D

Could it be the wrong settings or something? it seemed basic...like i tapped in

Gain 10

Start Psi 2.7

Limiter - Constant

Set Psi - 7.7

id thought it hold at 7.7 instead it goes to 20+ :D:) and their no holes or nothing in the rubber pipes

My guess is the pipework to wastegate actuator has blown/fallen/dropped off. I suggest you take it back to whoever fitted the boost controller and have them fix it. In the interim don't drive it on boost.

If you want to have one more go yourself, then you need to find the wastegate actuator. It's on the turbo, has a rod comming out of one side and a hose out the other. Follow that hose until you find where was blown/dropped/fell off from and reconnect it.

Hope that helps :D

is the wastegate actuator a gold thingy? near this sort of round water holder with a black cap?

i have 2 hoses coming of my boost valve...one leading to fmic and one leading to a goldy thing? is the goldy thing the wastegate actuator?

If so.,..the hose from the boost valve to the gold thingy...is in tact mate

Such a MINOR problem :cheers:

Thanks to Dr Drift - Sam who fixed the problem in an instant...

The valve had spun around...not securely fixed so it moved and bent the hose around...too me it looked the right way but it wasnt...so the hose was bent

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...