Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I experience something similar to you too, although I havn't removed the fuse.

I noticed it ever since I got a momo steering wheel fitted, and also the light comes on when traveling over 70k's for about 20 mins or longer.

Bloody HICAS!!!

It must be better around bends at higher speeds otherwise it wouldn't have been fitted.

Take it easy

Mark

Hmm.. I'm finding that in my R32 as well.

I recently bought my car about a month or two ago.. and it has an aftermarket steering wheel (not a momo, but similar shape and size).

However the hicas warning light only comes on sometimes when going over 70kpm..

and strangely I had a wheel aligment done on Friday and car still pulls to the left at low speeds.. not sure if hicas is prematurely just being weird!

HICAS is not your friend, every Skyline I own or have ever owned has had all evidence of HICAS removed by me. It's the first bit of suspension work I do. Thank heavens the Stagea doesn't have HICAS, so I don't have to remove it.

Have a read on HICAS in the suspension section, if you want to know more. :D

Hmmm what’s the go with removing the HICAS fuse then... Is that an easy solution or worth doing? I cant say i've felt HICAS, seeing i have a locked diff the back likes getting out sideways anyway....

I dont have a problem with my car so i wont change anything to do with HICAS i spose. I just wanted know when it kicks in, and how does it feel, good, bad?, Im thinking Sydneykid is gona say bad.

Hey Sydneykid... wana make your Sig pic any larger?

As mentioned it that forum.. I've already ordered an electronic HICAS controller from GRID in Japan. I just hope it sorts out the problems as effectively as physically locking it up.

HICAS controller? You mean HICAS canceller? or are we talking about the GRID ETS ATTESA controller now?

Richard

Hi geno8r, following are some of my previous posts on HICAS;

I believe that removing the HICAS is a good move for a couple of reasons...........

Firstly I like to be in control of the rear end via the throttle. The HICAS computer is slow and dumb, ie; it doesn't act very quickly and only has limited inputs. So it does things too late and sometimes they are the wrong things. It tries to help the rear traction by steering the wheels and this works OK, but only for as long as the car is within the traction limits of the tyre.

Secondly, rear tyres don't like to be twisted around when they are already under a lot of side load and scrambling for traction. The HICAS movement of the tyre is enough to break the contact patch on the road and the car slides. Sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. Then the HICAS tries to fix that by changing the steering angle and the whole thing starts all over again.

So, to answer your question, sometimes the HICAS adds to the oversteer and sometimes it doesn't. That's the killer, with the throttle and suspension setup, I have consistency. This gives the driver more confidence and consequently you can drive the car closer to the limits (ie; faster).

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

we remove all of the HICAS stuff of our R32 road/race cars. We replace the rear rack with an billet alloy block, shaped and threaded to suit. This locks the rear wheels and stops them from steering. Just pulling the fuse will still allow some movement under load.

We remove all of the pipes, hose fittings, mounting blocks and the rear (1) and front (2) solenoids. We then take the hose that usually goes from the power steering pump to the front solenoids and re-route it so the fluid goes straight through the oil cooler pipe.

Removing all this saves almost 30 kgs (including the excess fluid) and the car handles much more predicably on the circuit and on the road. None of the GTR's circuit race cars I have seen anywhere in the world (including the Gibson ones here in Australia) ran the HICAS.

Simple HICAS bypass kits are available from people like Jun, Apexi, Tomei etc. They have a couple of washers that stop the rack from moving and an electronic box that tricks the HICAS computer into thinking the rack is still working and so the dashboard warning light doesn't come on.

There are other kits around that have a replacement for the rack and a small bypass hose that goes between the two standard hoses at the rear rack. This makes the HICAS computer think the rack is still working and so the dashboard warning light doesn't come on. Stillen make kits like this for Z32's.

There are relatively cheap solid rear rack replacements available (eg; Japanese Motorsport) but the HICAS warning light comes on when you remove all of the other stuff. Some people remove the bulb to fix this problem.

My suggestion to people when they ask about HICAS is to remove it totally cause it saves weight and the car handles better. If they don't want to go to all the trouble and expense that involves, then I tell them to use a Tomei kit. Takes under an hour to fit by an amateur with limited tools. Whatever way you do it, the car will need a wheel alignment when finished.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is the Stillen rear rack replacement in billet alloy, similar to what we use on the race R32's

http://www.stillen.com/product_images/308550.jpg

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hope that helps.

Cheers for that info Sydneykid, How old are you m8? You certainly sound to have a lot of experience with cars...

Well, lets put it this way, the "kid" in Sydneykid is for fun :wassup: I mostly worked on circuit race cars and there you learn heaps of stuff real fast. I also write articles for magazines, mostly on suspension and do a bit of driver training to go with the race team data logging and interpretation. It's all good fun. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...