Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey - some nice big turbos going on there.

I myself would never go bigger than the HKS3040 (on a 2.5L) - having driven for the last 6 months with one - it's right at the top end for my taste in driving - Although I do like winning Dyno comps with it.

At the drags, it hits so hard, its either bog down or wheel spin. But you sort of get used to it - I am still such a crap launcher. To use all that power properly at the drags, I would need to change my whole suspension setup and run drag radials for launch ability - And then, I would prolly break something else - (driveshaft, diff, gearbox)

On the circuit - the only place is used all 330rwkw is down Eastern Creek straight -everywhere else I am in 3rd gear and use low boost.

Anyway - each to their own.

Good luck with the projects and look forward to seeing some results.

BTW - Cameron - you strut brace is going to get VERY hot ;)

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Skyrine Dave I would be very suspicious of a flush 4 bolt exhaust housing , does not sound like propper GT style housing . If its a bastardised Euro flange T4 housing it will cost you performance . RS500 tried it and flicked it for the genuine housing , went MUCH better . All the ext gate GT housings should have the extended 4 bolt connical discharge plus the volute and nozzle shape are made to suit the paddle bladed UHP turbine .

Cheers A .

Whats the diff between xtr 3040,gt3040 or a hks 3040?

Who is the best value for money?i mean which makes the most power for least money ratio?

And Let me get this right...

A gt35 is a 35 front and back? a gt 3040 is a 40 front 30 back ?

So which is laggier like why doesnt it just cancel out and make the same power and lag??

All .82 rear housing.

B-Man looking at your pics it appears to be identical to my std garret 3040 or whatever people call them part no SB8006, the wheels are the same size and profile, the comp housing is the same, mine is using a 0.82 exh housing so its a bit hard to compare, but if anything thats the only difference, the shape of the exhause housing. what power are you making with that thing with what boost and other mods, cheers clint

Czy18e , I think its a bit like changing your final drive ratio from 4.1 to 3.1 and expecting the same acceleration . Same torque pushing greater load giving lazy acceleration . The principle of leverage ie the greater the radius the greater the torque for a given input works with radial inflow turbines as well .

Does anyone know if Garretts GT3040R is available in 50 compressor trim ?

I really would like to see back to back tests with the GT30R (3037) 56 trim and both GT3040's ie Garrett's 56 trim and HKS's 50 trim . I'm sure the turbine inlet pressure vs boost pressure would be equal with the 30R , higher with the 56T 3040 and a little better with the 50T HKS version .

B-Man looking at your pics it appears to be identical to my std garret 3040 or whatever people call them part no SB8006, the wheels are the same size and profile, the comp housing is the same, mine is using a 0.82 exh housing so its a bit hard to compare, but if anything thats the only difference, the shape of the exhause housing. what power are you making with that thing with what boost and other mods, cheers clint

330kw at the wheels Clint (RB25).

I was at a Dyno Comp recently and there was a RB30DET there with a Garret GT35 on it - Managed 319 at the wheels. Was talking to him afterwards and he says that there is more in it than that.

Cheers,

Does anyone know if Garretts GT3040R is available in 50 compressor trim ?  

I really would like to see back to back tests with the GT30R (3037) 56 trim and both GT3040's ie Garrett's 56 trim and HKS's 50 trim.

Dosn't the Garrett GT3040 (SB8006/SB8006A) have a 64 trim?

If you have a look around at some SAU members car's you can make a pretty broad assumption:

A camm'd RB25 will generally make ~330rwkw at ~18psi, this is flowing ~55lbs/min of air. The benefits of running the HKS 3040 (82mm) comp wheel doesn't come into play as it's already maxed the capacity of the compressor without needing the raised boost ceiling of it's comp map. Ideally the HKS GT3040 is for smaller motors that need the added boost to max the compressor, or in twin form at ludicrous boost pressures (Heeelllooooo 3 bar)

The "true" Garrett GT3040 turbos use a GT40 comp wheel that flows ~65lbs/min w/56trim comp wheel - this is the SB8006/SB8006A that Ray Hall has on his website. Should be good for another ~60rwkw.

I don't see why the GT35R turbo wouldn't make 400rwkw in RB30 form, with a properly "built" motor.

As reference material check out BMan vs Buster vs Steve vs that other dude in perth with one (sorry mind blank). Pretty much identical curves for different turbos that all max at ~55lbs/min.

GTS-Vspec (Paul).

DB - Do you really think it the compresor that is the limitting factor ?? I was thinking about this and if boost is going up but no more power , then doesn't this mean there is a restriction somewhere else (eg Zorst / head) - So if restriction was removed the extra boost would result in more flow ??? Just add fuel , means more power.

If you have a temp sensor in the intake you'd be able to see alot more about what's going on. As a dollar per hp thing, at your level it would be cheaper to get a new core ($1300) vs porting the head ($1300+). Even if you port the head you're still going to bounce off the compressor limit, although it would probably make more average power + torque... so goes back to what are you wanting out of your setup? Even changing the exhaust would make a bit more power, but that loud drone can be very very very annoying (I prefer driving the stock R33 vs the modded R33).

I think there is probably more in it, but the $ to hp is not worth it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...