Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 204
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Put mine in this morning,

But the speedo catches at about 40 and 60,

and the tacho catches at about 4000 rpm and wont go higher.

I have it all pulled apart agin now?

any suggestions?

I might use some hot glue to hold it down a bit better round the edges.

Hi guys, just installed mine, and works awesome!!! Here are a few little tips and tricks I did along the way:

Fed most of my wires through that gap on the RHS of the instrument cluster next to the taco. Saves taking connectors off and putting them back on...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=24826

Cut the wire for the EL Speedo, fuel and temp and fed the wire through the gap on the Top LH corner where the black wire on the back sits, then soldered the connector back on.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=24827

Rule number one!!! BE PATIENT and careful when installing the EL dials over the current dials, the Speedo/fuel/temp is the hardest one to do.... I found it was best to point the needles all at around an angle of 60 degrees

For wiring the power to the controller box, i tapped into my negative wire for my turbo timer... For postive, I ran it straight to the cigarette lighter. BE SURE TO TAP INTO THE SMALL CONNECTOR for positive

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...tid=24831&stc=1

I stuck my controller box next to my fuse board using double sided tape, makes things neater...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=24829

As someone else stated on here, you can select the colour you want, and then unplug the controller and leave it somewhere else. The controller is too ugly for my liking so I actually left the controller wire hanging out of the fuse board cover, sits nicely and you can plug up anytime and is sought of in a secret hideaway position...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=24828

And the finished product:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...tid=24830&stc=1

Shit while doing it i snapped the clear plastic infront of the speedo and tacho and that, anyone know where i can get another one quick!!

Also how do i get to the boost guage? do i have to unsrew the tacho from the back?

Ok I fixed it,  

I used a pair of scissors to GENTLY pry the needle out a bit so it clears the dial

No I didn't,

It seems there is a bit of "play" in the tacho needle.

If I pull gently on it , it comes out and clears the dial. after awhile it must vibrate back in and is now catching around 5000rpm.

and ideas friends?

No I didn't,

It seems there is a bit of "play" in the tacho needle.

If I pull gently on it , it comes out and clears the dial. after awhile it must vibrate back in and is now catching around 5000rpm.

and ideas friends?

Yeah just took mine for a spin and it does the same starts catching at about 3/3.5 and keeps stuterering as im accelerating, maybne the screws in the back of the tacho may have something to do with it but im not sure anyone got any other ideas??

Yeah just took mine for a spin and it does the same starts catching at about 3/3.5 and keeps stuterering as im accelerating, maybne the screws in the back of the tacho may have something to do with it but im not sure anyone got any other ideas??

I found mine was catching on the TACO round 5000rpm and jutters all the way to 6.5-7k, then jutters back as I let off the accelerator...

Pulled the dash out again and wiggled the taco needle up abit and spun it a fair few times and tried pushing down the EL dial more...

Seems to have worked :(

Theres are good but after about a year of heavy use you will find the inverter will start to play up and the backlight will start to flciker while driver with the lights on and if you have other things on like the a/c, rear demister, or wipers.

If you guys installed them yourselfs i bet you speedo and tachs are around 200-300rpm out.

inasnt so wat exactly are youy trying to say?....

i think i should get someone to install them

since everyone is startin to have problems with installin them

Pay extra and get someone that knows what they are doing to install em, coz once you *** the springs on the speedo and tach even a little the speedo and tach will always read wrong. My oil pressure gauge sometimes decide to read 0 when there is full oil pressure since i did my conversion

I just put mine in and put some glue on EL tacho towards the bum of the needle and it aint catching, hopefully it doesnt, nut it is reading 150-200 rpm out when measured against my avcr, but they look awesome, i know motorware won install them on sklyines because they dont like to as its risky breaking the needle and other place are charging over $100

  • 1 month later...

For the guys who were having problems with the needles getting stuck, has anyone got any good suggestions as to how to stop this from happening?

Glue has been mentioned, but I don't know whether it will be visible when they're lit.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

For the guys who were having problems with the needles getting stuck, has anyone got any good suggestions as to how to stop this from happening?

Glue has been mentioned, but I don't know whether it will be visible when they're lit.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

What I did was give my needles a good wiggle, well a hard one at that... Mine were originally catching(TACHO), but dont catch no more.

Not the most recommended of ways, but it worked for me and have had no problems since

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I might just check it out.. A Q among all those skylines.. lol
    • Time will tell, they're doing all the admin stuff at the moment. I've submitted all the required details, photos, etc.   I was under the impression that DC coupling is the best approach, i.e.: Solar Array -> Battery Invertor -> Battery  Where as AC Coupling is simpler, however less efficient, i.e.: Solar Array -> Solar Invertor -> Battery Invertor -> Battery
    • The price is really great for that kind of capacity. I thought similar setups cost way more. How's your efficiency been with the DC-coupling? I've heard sometimes there can be a bit of a performance loss.
    • Long time no random post about shit. So I went down this deep deep rabbit hole of battery storage for the home, ended up locking in a 41.9kWh Fox ESS EQ4800 with 9 units stacked. Battery uses Lithium Iron Phosphate, similar to what you find in those deep cycle boat/caravan batteries. And yes, why did I go with a cheapie brand and not like Synergy? simply because I don't plan to stay at this house for more than another 3~5 years.  The entire install, DC coupling (removal of existing invertor, connecting the current 6.6kW array direct to the battery invertor), new 8kW invertor is $6K all up (after all the rebates etc.). Going with this lot: https://www.aussiesolarbatteries.com.au/ It did seem a bit too good to be true, however seems like the Whirlpool community has vetted it and when it comes to this kind of stuff, they seem to be all over it: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/9pxj8482?p=38   I've requested for the battery to be installed outside, next to my meter board and not inside - rather have it combust and ignite outside lol.    
    • In Vic it would be a defect regardless of whether or not you cut a hole in the sheetmetal for the return pipe. The rules in Vic are shitful, and are generally interpreted as you can "make 2 mods to the intake system". Putting an FFP and an FMI onto it will almost certainly be seen as some huge number of intake mods. You really need to speak to an engineer before doing this stuff in VIC.
×
×
  • Create New...