Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Has anyone got the nismo 740cc injectors running off an Apexi PFC and found any problems with idle or take off?

I have a 1996 gts-t and I'm currently looking at upgrading my injectors to allow enough boost to get to 250rwkw and I have spoken to a few workshops who believe I may get some small problems with injectors that are too large for the application (550cc whould be plenty).

I was thinking of getting these from Nengun, which list them for about $940 plus $50 delivery, but can anyone who has ordered these from Nengun let me know what additional costs such as duties and taxes they paid so i can get a clear idea of final costs?

I currently have all the other support systems PFC, FMIC, Turbo, pump.....etc

I was also adivsed to get a new stock or adjustable fuel pressure regulator as the one on the car is now 8 years old and running at stock boost (6psi?) most of its life and may cause a point of weakness in the system, so for about $150 its cheap insurance. Has any had a stock FPR fail?

Cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52619-nismo-740cc-injectors/
Share on other sites

i paid the same, delivered from nengun. Nothing more to pay like tax or anything.

with my PFC, the Nismo 740cc's were no problem at all.

My car runs smooth, idles smooth. You wouldnt even know its got 740's in it.

Im still using my stock fuel reg with no problems. No need to spend $$$ on an aftermarket one

boost has nothing to do with it. Its how much fuel you need for the given airflow.

but i was running 16psi taking it to 7500rpm, which will turn into 20psi once i get a bigger (again) fuel pump, and my turbo back on the car

which turbo u running that needs 20psi to make 250rwkw?

Gigolo,

If your car is running ok now then your FPR is fine.Any good mechanic will do a run with a fuel pressure gauge whilst on the dyno checking your readings regardless.

As for the 740cc thats a huge over kill for 250rwkw but that’s fine it’s good if you plan to go further in the future anyway.

As for idling problems there’s no way if your tuner has a clue you should experience any issues with these size injectors and at a sensible base fuel pressure.

BR,

JH

Hi

Has anyone got the nismo 740cc injectors running off an Apexi PFC and found any problems with idle or take off? 

I have a 1996 gts-t and I'm currently looking at upgrading my injectors to allow enough boost to get to 250rwkw and I have spoken to a few workshops who believe I may get some small problems with injectors that are too large for the application (550cc whould be plenty).

I was thinking of getting these from Nengun, which list them for about $940 plus $50 delivery, but can anyone who has ordered these from Nengun let me know what additional costs such as duties and taxes they paid so i can get a clear idea of final costs?

I currently have all the other support systems PFC, FMIC, Turbo, pump.....etc

I was also adivsed to get a new stock or adjustable fuel pressure regulator  as the one on the car is now 8 years old and running at stock boost (6psi?) most of its life and may cause a point of weakness in the system, so for about $150 its cheap insurance. Has any had a stock FPR fail?

Cheers guys

As I understand it, the fuel pressure rises with the ammount of boost pressure, but the injector duty cycle varies with airflow (AFM/ECU).

I have a T3/4 with unknown specs, but makes 215rwkw at 13psi. 20 psi was just an estimate to get 250rwkw at 7000rpm.

I was advised to get a the FPR by Jim at CRD - even a new stock one, as he has seen some of the stock ones fail if they are not always up to the job. Also makes easier to get the tune spot. So for 150 it may save a 4000 rebuild

you'll know if its failed right off the bat. The car will just run rich as, thats what mine did and blew a huge fuel-cloud out the rear end when on boost.

save yourself some $$$ and buy one when you actually need one. Not before.

Generally if your FPR fails you will be over fueled to the point you will have black smoke pouring out the back.

So the whole rebuild thing is ass.

Your injector duty cycles have nothing to do with that at all bascially 10.5 - 12ms (depends on ECU) is max injector duty before there fully opened so the ratio is worked out depending on where your tune is at that point!

IE: (EXAMPLE)

18psi - 6500rpm - 80% load = 6.5ms so therefore your around 60% IDC offuisly the ms on the injectors are decided on your AFR where the tuner feels is best.

I think your mechanic is probably saying you can get close to your 250rwkw with standard injectors a fuel pressure reg to up the rail pressure and some more boost.

You can make 10million HP theres no extra load on your FPR. :)

BR,

JH

As I understand it, the fuel pressure rises with the ammount of boost pressure, but the injector duty cycle varies with airflow (AFM/ECU).

I have a T3/4 with unknown specs, but makes 215rwkw at 13psi. 20 psi was just an estimate to get 250rwkw at 7000rpm. 

I was advised to get a the FPR by Jim at CRD - even a new stock one, as he has seen some of the stock ones fail if they are not always up to the job. Also makes easier to get the tune spot. So for 150 it may save a 4000 rebuild

  • 2 weeks later...

Well just off topic slightly, I have purchased some Nismo 740cc injectors for my R33, I am yet to see them yet.. I am wondering when the bloody hell they would be sent. Anyone dealt with Nengun before? how long does it normally take to get stock from them? I can't even track via EMS yet. If anyone has dealt with them let me know please how it went?

Once I get them (hopefully soon) I will be installing them onto my R33 running a FMIC and Haltech ECU and Haltech Ignition Systems. Obviously I will be upgrading the pump and fuel rail to suit.

Aridyne!

So a failed FPR will not cause it to lean out and detonate? Because this is what I was told when visiting CRD with my car on the weekend.  

Thanks for all the info R31 Nismoid and Japsky33.  

If there is no real danger then  i may as well hold off and save some $$$.

It depends how it failed.. quite often I see them not working right, or the pressure pipe has blown or split.. this certainly makes the car lean out.

I can't see it failing and holding more pressure, making the car rich?

4 weeks for mine. that was more Customs fault as it seemed to sit there for a week.

give it a good 4 weeks

Mmm I wish he would hurry up so I can get them to my installer and work out what else I require to get my car running hunky dory... and without fear of hammering the throttle and not killing a injector and then the rest:(

Anyone grabbed a new set of those HKS Cam gears.. the new models that they are trying to sell against the Tomei?

with my PFC, the Nismo 740cc's were no problem at all.

My car runs smooth, idles smooth. You wouldnt even know its got 740's in it.

Im still using my stock fuel reg with no problems. No need to spend $$$ on an aftermarket one

did you have to get injector collars with them at all ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...