Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having just purchased 18 inch rims, i have decided to modify/lower the suspension, and was wondering...:confused:

My question is, should i get new set of shocks? or stick with standard ones? (one rear is buggered so i need at least two new rear ones) What brand? How much should i budget for?

As for the springs, what brand do you recommend? I wanna lower the front by 30mm, rear by 25mm.

The car is driven daily, not really intended for track, so i need some comfort not just improved handling.

How hard is it to change springs/shocks in an r33? I am thinking about doing the work myself.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52671-time-to-modify/
Share on other sites

You could easily do the work yourself. I did mine with no hassles. You just need a set of spring compressors. See the thread in tutorial section.

I have Bilstein shocks ($225 each) and they are not that comfortable, but not that much worse than my stock shocks were.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52671-time-to-modify/#findComment-1042199
Share on other sites

cheers for the reply greg.

i just measured my height and the exhaust is almost at the legal height limit already but the rest of the car looks like a farken four wheel drive!!

i need adjustable height, coilovers are an option but i hear they are very rough, not to mention expensive..

can anyone recommend something so i can have a nice ride and adjustable height? i dont wanna have to change springs everytime i get a defect..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52671-time-to-modify/#findComment-1043605
Share on other sites

cheers for the reply greg.

 

i just measured my height and the exhaust is almost at the legal height limit already but the rest of the car looks like a farken four wheel drive!!

 

i need adjustable height, coilovers are an option but i hear they are very rough, not to mention expensive..

 

can anyone recommend something so i can have a nice ride and adjustable height? i dont wanna have to change springs everytime i get a defect..

We use lots of Whiteline springs with Bilstein shocks with great success.

www.whiteline.com.au

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52671-time-to-modify/#findComment-1043907
Share on other sites

thanks sydneykid..

my main concern was height adjustment so i bought a secondhand set of TEIN coilovers..

the only problem is one of the fronts has a seized damper adjuster, just wondering how it can be fixed? if its hard to fix i might just put up with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52671-time-to-modify/#findComment-1050844
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

i just thought i would give an update...

put the coilovers in last weekend and have to say i am very happy with them.. they are kinda hard but not enough to drive me crazy, and the handling/steering/stability has improved beyond words....

and adjusted height few days later, all turned out great!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52671-time-to-modify/#findComment-1063960
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...