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Where to Start RB30det Project

Silva32

By Silva32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Silva32 Contributor

Silva32

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Hi Everyone,

I have owned my R32 GTST for a couple of years now and have decided its time for a upgrade. I have seen around the place people talking about the conversion to a RB30det and this has sparked my interest.

I am unsure where to start this project and how much its going to cost me if I am looking at producing up to 300rwkw, will I need forgies and rods, what about the gear box and transmission will they hold up under that kind of power?

If anyone can point me in the right direction to start this project that would be great.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52818-where-to-start-rb30det-project/
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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Picking your self up a R32 RB25DE and dropping a set of forgy's in it is a easy swap.

You don't have to worry about the extra 38-40mm deck height that fouls the bonnet.

BUT.. if you are after a really tough street car then the rb30det can't be beaten.

Thats if you are willing to put up with the few extra hassles getting it in there.

Its an expensive change over as you can't simply drop the 30det in and expect it to run.

You will also need an ECU and it will have to be tuned.

For a simple buildup with forged pistons, a rebuilt head and mild port/polish expect close to $6000.

Then you will need all the little extra's that add up very quickly - Heater/radiator/plenum water hoses ~$400, thermostat ~$50, fan belts ~$50... the list goes on.. :P

With turbo, injectors, ecu etc expect to spend around $10,000-$12,000

Silva32 Contributor

Silva32

Posted
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Posted

I have had engine building experience from my kingswood days, is this type of project something that I could take on and do myself or are the tolerances to tight that it would be better of performed by a qualified tuning shop, maybe someone could recommend one here in Melbourne that has experience in these engines before?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

If you have built engines before you would have used a plastiguage.. maybe it was called something else.

In short you basically you shove it in between the two bearing surfaces and torque it up.

You then read what the clearance is.. If it is within spec you are fine if it isn't you need different bearings to bring the clearance within spec.

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