Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i found a r32 gtr 5 speed for sale and i was wondering whether its easier to use the 33 or 32 box and whether they are the same ????

also does the front tailshaft from the auto fit the gtr 5 speed by any chance or will i need a gtr one?

is the attessa 4wd stuff run by a computer??? or hydraulics? or what? and if its run by ecu, is it seperate to the engine ecu???

sorry for the billion q's again but i wanna make sure i buy the right stuff 1st time round

will i need to get a gtr rear tailshaft as well i presume????

i need to sort out what i need and what i dont need :D

thanks again

Brad :rofl:

hey guys i found a r32 gtr 5 speed for sale and i was wondering whether its easier to use the 33 or 32 box and whether they are the same ????
The R33 is rumoured to be a bit better but I haven't seen it.
does the front tailshaft from the auto fit the gtr 5 speed by any chance or will i need a gtr one?
I suspect it is the same, because the transfer case is pretty much the same
is the attessa 4wd stuff run by a computer???
Yes
or hydraulics?
Yes
if its run by ecu, is it seperate to the engine ecu???
Yes

The engine ecu talks to the ATESSA ecu which uses hydraulics to change the preload on the clutch pack which alters the amount of drive to the front wheels.

will i need to get a gtr rear tailshaft as well i presume????
Again I think the auto and manual are the same
i need to sort out what i need and what i dont need

I don't think you can do/know/buy EVERYTHING before you start, I suggest you get the major/known items and just get on with it.

whats the diff ratio on the stagea autos????
Sorry I don't know that, but I suspect it will be different. You need to have both diff ratios the same. So you either use 2 X GTR diffs or 2 X Stagea diffs.
is the diff good enough to handle the 26 conversion???
I would say so.
is it the same as a gtr diff???
Not sure what this question means, ratios as per above. Centre (as in LSD) unlikely to be the same but I don't think it matters.

Personally I would use as little GTR stuff as I could, then if I find a deficiency later on I would upgrade that part. If you just go heavily into GTR stuff everywhere, you will end up spending more money than you need to. The best way, if you really want to transfer everything would be to buy an accident damaged R33GTR and swap over all the parts, that would be cheaper than buying bits one by one.

Regardless of methods, if you change it completely (as in every single part) it would have been cheaper to buy a 260RS. The best way is to do the important/essential stuff and ignore the "nice to have stuff". There is a young NZ guy on the forum whose father has done an RB26 transplant into an N/A manual Stagea, he may be worthwhile talking to.

Hope that helps :rofl:

  • 2 weeks later...

Have done the conversion.

Tailshaft - different

I used a 32 gear box but the 33 box is exactly he same only the clutch is different and the mounting of the slave cylinder on the bell housing.

front tailshaft is the same.

four wheel drive is in the ECU and works fine in my car. ( about to change this to power fc )

There is alot of mucking around to convert but well worth the exercise.

If you have any more questions let me know and I'll try and help.

Cheers

Gary

4wd/abs are in the same computer, down the back of the car

the inputs it needs are same as any other atessa ecu (refer 32 gtr workshop manual)

btw sydney kid, im not _that_ young (21 ;), i've got a 32 gtr myself :)

the 260rs uses a assisted clutch (needs firewall mods), but you can run unassisted no problem, we run a hks triple plate, the pedal is heavy, but not a killer

we prefer the 32 style box because of the clutch setup

so if you want to go for the assisted clutch the firewall needs to be modified but if you fit a 32/33 gtr box you dont need to cut into the firewall? (except for the clutch pedal i guess.

how hard is it to relocate the handbrake?

there were some firewall mods. apparently if you don't use the power assist, the clutch can be a bit of a pig ie. gear selection with the clutch not disengaging properly.

The hand brake is the bastard thing. all the brackets from the rs260 were used on mine and rs 260 centre console, and i still haven't got the plastic foot rest thingie to replace the auto one.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...