Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey peoples,

ive done a search and have found a bit of discussion on the topic of bovs, but which on the market do you think is the loudest????

ive heard blitz is??? then again ive heard turbosmart flows the most? wats the go

i have a turbosmart supersonic, and its loud, but im getting too used to the sound, and am considering a hks ssqv., simply for a different sound.

let me know what your opinion is on the loudest you have heard, and any other stuff you know about bovs in general:)

also, i like the flutter sound that everyone goes on about, but have hearded it will cuase shaft play, but thats same sound is made in the pod sometimes???

any input would be great!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53138-bov-whats-the-loudest/
Share on other sites

haha i cant stand it either..But in saying that i once was the guy who did that haha....

The best one to date that i have heard Has got to be the

Blitz BOV...The thing is to open up the BOV and take out the mesh that is in there Im telling you it will be so so much louder than it was with the mesh....Also adjust the screw etc...

hope this helps...

Loudest I've heard is the one that came with my car -> TurboXs RFL bov, Really F#cken Loud, thats what its called and damn you can hear the thing from miles away (no defects yet :P) Its luder than my mates blitz ssq item.

Before i bought my car the guy took me for a ride... he changed gears at lower revs *prob about 3000 rpm* and the car made this weird ass fluttering noise "What the hell was that" i said. It's the BOV. I have a Blitz BOV and at lower Psi it flutters the exiting air, at higher boost *10 psi plus* it makes these dirty big SSSSSPWWWSSHHHH blow off noises lol. It might flutter about 3 times @ low boost, & one huge one at higher boost. Sounds really cool when the outside temperature is really cold too, one big blow off might go for like 2 seconds. Man, do i have some stories of scaring people with it, lol its just too tempting sometimes with people on the sidewalk about 2 meters away!! hheehe But i do have morals! I wont do it to old people, because i'd fear they'd have a heart attack & fall over & die.

Yeah, the car is making boost at lower rpm and the spring on the bov is to tight so the air gets chopped back through the compressor making that noise through the pod, as soon as he runs higher boost or goes deeper in the rev range he makes alot more psi so the bov then works likes it supposed to. :P

the car is making boost at lower rpm and the spring on the bov is to tight so the air gets chopped back through the compressor making that noise through the pod

Yeh???? through the pod?... ummmmmmmm is that bad to be going back through the compressor... sounds weird to me, i spose its only low boost anyway. I was just thinkin why it makes that noise the other day too... I was thinking... How is it at such low boost there is enough pressure to open the BOV spring up to make that noise....

Sounds sweet anyway.... lol

Yeh???? through the pod?... ummmmmmmm is that bad to be going back through the compressor... sounds weird to me, i spose its only low boost anyway.  I was just thinkin why it makes that noise the other day too... I was thinking... How is it at such low boost there is enough pressure to open the BOV spring up to make that noise....

Sounds sweet anyway.... lol

not the best, there have been numerous threads about this noise with many differing opinions about both whether its air going back through the turbo and whether its good or not. IMHO it cant be good for the turbo and regardless of the fact it might sound good i wouldnt be trying to do it all the time.

When the boost isnt high enough to open the bov spring it goes back through the compressor, it'll only happen at very low low boost or if you tighen the shit out of your bov spring, at such low boost it isnt bad, but once you start using higher boost and it does that (like when not using a bov at all) its bad over time and will eventually wreck the compressor baldes. Example; say the bov opens at 2 psi or above to let out anything over 2psi worth of boost, when it's done letting of that boost, anything under 2 psi has to go somewhere when the trottle is closed, so i travels back through the compressor making that sound. :P

thats gota be sum sort of achievment if i have stared the WORST thread ever in the history of sau forums. :rofl:

as much as alot of us would hate to admit it, the best thing about owning a skyline is the PPPPSSSSHHHHHH factor, yes i know many hate it, dont give a crap about the sound and think its totally wankey, but hey, i think u guys are the minority, ahhh well, each to their own i suppose

thanks blitz, let me know wen i get my trophie.................joking bro:)

thats gota be sum sort of achievment if i have stared the WORST thread ever in the history of sau forums. :(

as much as alot of us would hate to admit it, the best thing about owning a skyline is the  PPPPSSSSHHHHHH factor, yes i know many hate it, dont give a crap about the sound and think its totally wankey, but hey, i think u guys are the minority, ahhh well, each to their own i suppose

thanks blitz, let me know wen i get my trophie.................joking bro:)

Its in the post :rofl:

nah its not even like that, you cant catch fish without bait, so why drive a turbo car without the pppssshhhh!!!

i know this argument about the wank factor could go on forever, so lets just call it even ok:)

i wanted to know which was the loudest so i DONT get it........haha, mine is pretty loud, geez u have to admit that its pretty funny wen u boost up next to sum nice little old lady on the footpath next to you, ya no, wen the big PPPSSSSHHH suddenly cums out of no where and they quikly jump around scared shitless cuase they think their in nam again.......haha

oh geez its all in good fun

any way back on the intention of this thread......people think blitz is the loudest? i have heard they leak boost, is this true?

and what about the turbosmart megasonic with the 2 trumpets, man that would have to be loud

well, I'd prefer the nice, loud whirring whistling noise coming from my engine bay, while my turbo is collecting boost.

The Plumb back BOV still makes a whoosh, but not a high pitched bullshit one. Its a nice deep thunder, but not that loud. I get the most head turns when its sucking its ass off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...