Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive brought a new tacho and its not auto meter but the old one is when i cut the old one and put gree2green black2black red2red on the new one i noticed the white wire in the dash and so does the auto meter gauge have white wire does any1 know where this white wire should go (all the wires on the new 1 are hooked up it has red, green,black,2 4 the shift light also do i turn the headlights on or just accessories (the auto meter i had hook up by an auto elec) done same gauges on diffrent cars but they all had white

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53556-monster-tacho-help/
Share on other sites

why do i have 2 put it on the bonnet when the autometer tacho was mounted inside and i was trying to use those wires and cant see why i cant ---- as 4 the lights inside the tacho they are working when red,black, green are hooked up even with the white not conected the lights work but the rpm is not reading which wire reads the rpm - on the tacho

(THE NEW TACHO DOSENT HAVE WHITE )the wires comming out of the dash were for auto meter - (white) red green black - BUT THE NEW 1 DOSENT please if u dont know why the white wire is on the old tacho and not the new thankx but no thankxps the lights work 4 the tacho ---- when do i turn acess on - think ill spend the $50 - thought sum guys in here could help ---hhhhhhhhh

with your headlights off try using a test light on the white wire from the dash see if your test light comes on if it dosent then turn your lights on and see if your test light comes on if it does then you know what that wire is for now with the green wire (tacho signal wire) with your car running hold your test light on the green wire coming from your dash if its getting a signal your tacho in your dash should drop to 0 revs hope this helps you

if the white wire has power when you turn your lights on just tape it up as your new tacho must light up when eva your car is on when i installed my tacho i didnt disconnect the battery or have the ignition on all i did was wire it up with my test light it was all good goodluck

NEW PROB the white wire is for the dash and boost gauge and if i connect it to red i have boost and dash lights (hmmm even with the headlights off -wtf) if i just tape it up i have no dash and boost lights as 4 the tacho u can turn it of at the tacho -so i think it must run all the time 4 sum reason i think i cant have this tacho

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...